BV 
3540 
. A44 
1882 


Pioneer  Work,  i 88 1 . 


BOSTON: 

American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions, 
1882. 


OFPfi^ 

NOV  10  1955 
SoeiCALSO^' 


BV  3540  . A44  1882 
American  Board  of 
Commissioners  for  Foreign 
The  mission  of  the  American, 
_±_o Iafe_s± C^P-tX^JL— — I 


W.R.FfSH  PHOTO 'EN6.  BOSTON. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/missionofamericaOOamer 


THE 


A 


— TO  — 

West  Central  Africa. 


Pioneer  Work,  i 88  i . 


/ BOSTON: 

American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions, 
1882. 


BEACON  PRESS  : 
THOMAS  TODD,  PRINTER, 
I SOMERSET  STREET, 


BOSTON. 


THE  WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICAN  MISSION. 


At  the  annual  meeting  of  the  American  Board  in  October, 
1879,  the  Prudential  Committee  was  directed  to  open  a mission, 
if  practicable,  in  West  Central  Africa.  The  region  selected  was 
that  of  “ Bihe  and  the  Coanza,  an  elevated  plateau,  or  rolling 
country,  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  inland  from  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  at  Benguela,  in  about  120  south  latitude.” 

At  the  annual  meeting  in  October,  1880,  the  Committee 
reported  the  arrangements  in  progress.  Rev.  Walter  W. 
Bagster,  Rev.  William  H.  Sanders,  and  Mr.  Samuel  T.  Miller, 
whose  offers  of  service  had  been  accepted,  sailed  from  Lisbon 
on  the  5th  of  October,  the  day  of  the  annual  meeting.  After  a 
pleasant  voyage  of  thirty-nine  days,  touching  at  the  Cape  de 
Verde  and  other  islands,  they  landed  safely  November  10,  in 
St.  Philip,  the  port  of  Benguela. 

This  town,  called  also  in  common  speech  simply  Benguela , 
contains  about  two  hundred  whites  and  four  hundred  blacks  ; 
has  a fort,  custom-house,  and  governor’s  residence,  a bank,  and 
a few  store-houses.  In  slave-trading  days  it  was  one  of  the 
principal  shipping  ports  of  Angola.  Thousands  of  slaves, 
chiefly  brought  in  by  the  natives  of  Bihe,  were  sent  off  to  Brazil 
and  Cuba.  The  last  shipments  were  within  ten  or  twelve  years. 
“ I saw  a thousand  slaves  in  one  caravan,”  says  Monteiro,  who 
was  there  in  1870.  Now  business  has  largely  gone  from  Ben- 
guela to  Catumbella,  which  is  ten  or  twelve  miles  distant,  and 
on  the  road  to  Bihe.  The  caravans  from  the  interior  stop  at 
Catumbella. 

The  first  thing  to  be  arranged  at  Benguela  was  for  the  trans- 


4 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


portation  inland.  The  Catumbella  River  is  not  navigable. 
There  are  no  beasts  of  burden  and  no  roads  on  which  they  can 
travel.  Merchandise  is  carried  by  porters.  Travelers  either 
walk  or  are  carried  in  the  tepoia,  which  is  a kind  of  palanquin, 
or  cot,  suspended  from  a pole  which  is  borne  by  porters.  Six 
porters  are  the  complement  for  a tepoia ; two  carry  it  a few 
moments,  and  without  stopping  transfer  it  to  two  others,  and  so 
onward.  By  sending  two  hundred  miles  down  the  coast  to 
Mossamedes,  a riding  ox  was  procured,  which  proved  service- 
able. 

Our  missionaries  were  treated  very  civilly  by  the  Portuguese 
authorities,  and  received  many  favors  from  merchants.  But  all 
the  facilities  given  them  could  not  overcome  the  difficulties  of 
transportation  without  long  and  tedious  delay,  vexation,  and 
expense.  In  1877,  the  Portuguese  government  sent  a scientific 
expedition  to  Bihe,  comprising  three  army  and  navy  officers. 
After  they  reached  Benguela,  with  all  the  resources  of  the 
government  at  their  disposal  nearly  three  months  were  spent 
in  procuring  porters ; and  then  it  was  more  than  six  months 
after  leaving  the  coast  when  they  reached  Bih£.  Mr.  Bagster 
and  his  associates  fared  better  than  Serpa  Pinto  and  the  other 
members  of  this  Portuguese  expedition.  Though  several  times 
closing  a bargain  for  guides  and  porters  only  to  find  it  thrown 
up  and  everything  to  be  done  over  again,  and  being  once  com- 
pelled, after  fairly  starting,  to  return  when  a few  miles  out,  on 
the  discovery  of  what  seemed  treachery  in  the  porters,  they  at 
last  got  away  from  Benguela  March  9,  1881.  Having  stopped 
at  several  places,  on  March  28  they  reached  Bailunda,  where 
they  are  forming  a station  of  the  mission.  Bailunda  is  but  a 
short  distance  from  Bihe. 

This  enforced  delay  has  not  been  lost  time,  but  rather  directly 
helpful  to  the  missionary  work.  They  have  made  a wise  dis- 
tribution of  Portuguese  Bibles  and  New  Testaments,  which  have 
been  received  in  a way  that  gives  promise  of  a future  harvest. 
They  have  occupied  themselves  in  learning  the  language.  The 


STUDYING  THE  LANGUAGE. 


5 


same  dialect,  the  Ambunda,  is  spoken  with  slight  variations  by 
negroes  on  the  coast  and  in  the  interior.  Messrs.  Sanders  and 
Miller  made  such  progress  in  their  studies,  that  when  they 
reached  Bailunda  they  could  understand  conversations  fairly. 
This  knowledge  they  already  find  of  essential  advantage,  as  it 
enables  them  to  know  what  the  people  say  in  their  talks  one 
with  another  about  the  missionaries,  and  it  affords  a check  upon 
their  guides  and  interpreters  who,  not  infrequently,  as  they  dis- 
covered, represented  the  strangers  as  saying,  not  what  they 
meant,  but  what  their  guides  thought  they  ought  to  mean. 

What  is  more  important,  by  this  delay  the  people  have  become 
accustomed  to  the  presence  of  the  missionaries,  an  essential 
thing  in  dealing  with  Africans ; they  are  learning  to  trust  them, 
and  to  believe  that  they  are  what  they  claim  to  be,  and  are  not 
secretly  aiming  to  monopolize  the  trade  of  the  country,  and 
especially  that  they  are  not  the  advance  guard  of  an  American 
colony  with  designs  of  ultimate  annexation  of  the  country. 
From  this  last  notion  it  has  been  hard  to  dislodge  some  of  the 
men  of  intelligence.  “ England  always  sends  missionaries  to 
make  way  for  colonists,”  it  was  said ; “ and  England  and 
America  are  for  all  practical  purposes  one.” 

The  actual  traveling  time  to  Bailunda  was  about  twenty 
days.  Mr.  Bagster  rode  the  ox,  Mr.  Sanders  and  Mr.  Miller 
started  in  tepoias,  but  walked  much  of  the  way.  There  were 
seven  donkeys,  and  about  sixty  men  carrying  packages  of  sixty 
pounds  each.  Camp  followers  included,  there  were  ninety-five 
persons  in  the  company.  The  road,  for  a short  distance  skirt- 
ing the  shallow  Catumbella  River,  soon  began  to  climb  moun- 
tains and  wind  through  wild  gorges.  Numerous  rivulets  were 
crossed.  As  they  advanced,  the  scenery  became  grand.  “ Majes- 
tic canons  opened  between  towering  summits,  gulches  were  filled 
with  masses  of  wild  vegetation,  the  trees  struggled  to  lift  their 
heads  above  the  climbing  plants.”  “ On  either  side  the  views 
called  for  constant  admiration.  The  grandeur  of  the  rocky 
heights  gave  a feeling  of  littleness  to  the  beholder.”  As  they 


6 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


reached  the  broken  country  of  the  elevated  table-land,  “ the  veg- 
etation, instead  of  that  of  the  tropics,  appeared  much  like  that 
of  New  England,  and  the  scenery  was  such  as  would  excite  no 
surprise  in  the  latitude  of  Boston.”  No  perilous  adventures 
were  encountered,  but  the  journey  was  a severer  strain  upon 
their  patience  and  powers  of  endurance  than  they  anticipated. 
Mr.  Bagster  gained  relief  from  his  fever,  while  Mr.  Sanders  and 
Mr.  Miller  had  slight  attacks,  for  which  “ quinine  proved  a sov- 
ereign remedy.” 

Bailunda  is  an  important  region.  It  is  elevated  and  popu- 
lous. The  king,  Kwikwi,  has  given  a cordial  reception  to  our 
brethren,  and  seems  anxious  to  have  them  become  permanent 
“children”  of  his.  As  this  place  lies  on  the  direct  road  to 
Bihd,  and  is  a few  miles  nearer  the  coast,  a station  there  will  be 
essential,  and  will  be  a hopeful  opening  for  work  beyond. 

It  is  possible  that  a better  road  to  the  ocean  may  be  found 
than  the  direct  one  from  Bailunda  down  the  mountains  by  way 
of  Kassange  and  Catumbella  to  Benguela.  Loanda,  the  capital 
of  the  whole  Portuguese  province,  lies  two  hundred  miles  north 
of  Benguela,  and  is  the  largest  city  on  the  West  Coast  south  of 
Gibraltar.  It  would  be  much  the  best  base  of  supplies.  From 
Loanda  there  is  transportation  in  steamers  up  the  Coanza  River 
sixty  miles  inland.  From  the  falls  on  the  Coanza  it  is  thought 
a road  less  rugged  and  mountainous  may  be  found  to  Bailunda 
and  Bihd.  Our  missionaries  propose  to  make  explorations  to 
ascertain  about  this.  Even  though  the  distance  is  greater,  if  the 
road  proves  easier,  this,  with  the  other  advantages  of  St.  Paul 
de  Loanda  — or  simply  Loanda,  as  it  is  usually  called  — would 
make  that  city  most  desirable  for  our  seaport. 

During  the  month  of  July,  Messrs.  Sanders  and  Miller  were 
quietly  settled  down  in  comfortable  quarters  in  Bailunda, 
acquainting  themselves  with  the  people  and  the  people  with 
themselves.  Mr.  Bagster  returned  to  Benguela  to  hasten  for- 
ward cloths  needed  for  presents  and  for  purchases,  as  the  stock 
they  took  in  at  first  would  not  long  suffice.  On  his  downward 


ARRIVAL  ON  THE  COAST. 


7 


trip  he  obtained  photographic  views  and  made  important  exam- 
inations of  routes  and  modes  of-  transport  for  the  future. 

When  he  had  rejoined  his  associates  in  Bailunda,  it  was  deter- 
mined to  go  on  to  Bihe  and  inspect  that  country  before  deciding 
where  to  make  the  first  permanent  station  of  the  mission.  The 
“ Ambassador  ” of  Kwikwi  took  them  in  charge  for  the  journey 
to  Bihd.  Just  as  they  reached  the  border  he  declared  that  they 
must  wait  to  learn  the  king’s  pleasure  before  going  further,  and 
intimated  that  they  would  be  in  danger  unless  they  first  heard 
again  from  the  king.  Finding  that  if  they  went  forward  it  would 
be  against  the  remonstances  of  the  guides,  and  unwilling  to  give 
occasion  to  any  complaint  of  violating  African  etiquette,  although 
they  had  no  fear  how  they  would  be  received  by  the  king  of 
Bihe,  they  thought  best  to  return  for  the  present  to  their  old 
quarters  in  Bailunda. 

Meanwhile  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Frederick  A.  Walter,  who  left 
Bridgeport,  Connecticut,  April  7,  1881,  and  Lisbon  July  5, 
landed  in  Benguela  September  5,  where  they  were  welcomed  by 
Mr.  Bagster.  Dr.  Francis  O.  Nichols  and  Mrs.  Nichols,  who  left 
Haverhill,  Massachusetts,  August  5,  and  Lisbon  September  7, 
joined  them  in  Benguela,  October  6 ; and  November  12  the  new 
comers  left  the  coast  for  Bailunda  under  escort  of  Mr.  Bagster. 

As  our  friends  are  missionary  explorers,  there  is  not  only 
special  interest  in  the  accounts  they  give  of  their  movements, 
and  in  their  pictures  of  the  land  and  people,  but  these  particu- 
lars need  to  be  put  on  record  for  the  wise  conduct  of  missionary 
operations  hereafter.  We  present  copious  extracts  from  their 
letters  as  the  first  contribution  to  the  history  of  this  Christian 
undertaking. 


SAFE  ARRIVAL  ON  THE  COAST. 

From  St.  Paul  de  Loanda  — called  simply  Loanda,  as  St. 
Philip  de  Benguela  is  called  generally  Benguela  — Mr.  Bagster 
wrote  November  9,  1880  : 


8 


WEST  CENTRAL  AERICA. 


“ My  pen  longs  to  fill  all  this  sheet  with  songs  of  praise,  and 
then  I should  scarce  have  begun  to  render  unto  the  Lord  the 
honor  due  unto  him.  He  doeth  all  things  well,  and  so  we  have 
been  learning  during  the  past  days. 

“When  the  American  Consul,  Mr.  Newton,  of  the  firm  of 
Newton,  Carnegie  & Co.,  owning  the  line  of  Coanza  steamers, 
and  others,  came  on  board,  we  received  the  most  kind  and  thor- 
oughly liberal  welcome,  and  subsequently  on  shore  more  than 
courtesy  was  extended  to  us  — every  possible  attention  was  shown 
us  and  service  rendered.  During  our  voyage  we  have  been 
wondering  why  we  could  get  no  Kroo  boys ; .the  most  careful 
inquiries  at  every  port  showed  none  to  be  had  ; but  th;s  now  is 
all  made  plain.  It  was  not  the  right  way , for  I find  they  would 
have  been  to  us  a source  of  unmitigated  trouble  and  constant 
liability  to  broils  with  the  natives,  as  we  passed  through  the 
country.  Indeed  the  fact  is,  as  the  oldest  and  most  reliable 
men  in  Loanda  tell  me,  the  Kroos  will  not  do  to  take  inland  ; 
the  first  village  we  pass  we  should  have  to  fight,  or  have  ‘ a 
woman  palaver.’ 

“ Another  cause  for  praise  is  the  kindness  toward  us  of  the 
Portuguese  officials,  although  I cannot  say  that  in  Loanda  we 
have  received  any  direct  help  from  them.  Mr.  Newton  afforded 
us  much  assistance,  not  only  giving  us  information  concerning 
the  country,  but  also  spending  much  time  and  thought  in 
obtaining  two  Cabindas  as  servants,  in  getting  letters  to  the 
people  in  Benguela,  and  in  writing  to  friends  of  his  own  there. 

“ First,  as  to  the  healthfulness  of  this  place,  and  the  present 
outlook.  When  in  Loanda  we  heard  that  Benguela  was  a fear- 
fully unhealthy  place  ; the  worst  on  the  coast.  We  did  not  on 
landing  see  cause  to  believe  this  account,  and  not  until  the 
matter  was  explained  by  the  governor  here  did  I take  in  the 
whole  truth.  It  seems  that  during  the  dry  season,  as  at  present, 
it  is  quite  healthy,  but  that  during  the  wet  season  the  place  is 
almost  a marsh,  and  very  unhealthy.  The  governor  strongly 
advised  our  going  down  to  Mossamedes  on  the  next  steamer, 


THE  OUTLOOK \ 


9 


and  there  staying  until  the  middle  of  April,  starting  inland  the 
early  days  of  May.  But  I have  not  yet  given  up  the  idea  of 
reaching  Bihe  by  the  end  of  next  January  (at  latest),  although  I 
am  told  that  this  cannot  be  done,  because  we  must  send  to  Bihe 
for  porters,  and  this  it  will  take  three  months  to  do.  What  will 
be  the  developments  of  the  next  few  days  I do  not  know,  but 
now  think  of  going  to  the  town  of  Catumbella  next  week,  to  see 
the  Biheans  who  come  down  there,  and  to  see  the  donkeys. 
They  are  very  fine  little  animals,  and  much  larger  and  better 
than  the  St.  Iago  donkeys.  Catumbella  is  twelve  miles  north- 
east of  this  place,  and  all  the  business  has  gone  thereon  account 
of  its  being  the  place  where  the  road  comes  in,  and  thus  it  has 
cut  off  all  the  trade  from  Benguela.  The  character  it  bears  is, 
however,  far  worse  both  as  regards  cleanliness  and  healthful- 
ness. Yesterday  we  succeeded  in  renting  a house  for  a month, 
and  hope  today  to  go  into  possession.  There  are  two  rooms 
and  a store,  and  a kitchen  behind,  a large  yard,  and  two  long 
sheds  for  donkeys,  etc.  There  are  no  glass  windows,  the  floors 
are  rough  flag-stone,  and  the  whole  dirty  and  full  of  fleas,  but 
we  are  clearing  up  and  hope  to  make  it  answer  our  purpose. 
We  must  have  a place  to  ourselves,  and  that  large  enough  to 
pack  and  repack  in,  and  to  admit  of  loads  for  men  and  donkeys 
being  made  up. 

“There  is  no  reason,  so  far  as  known,  why  we  should  not 
take  donkeys  into  Bihe  successfully.  We  can  obtain  all  we  need 
from  Mr.  Marques  (Portuguese),  the  gentleman  who  has  so 
kindly  treated  us  to  his  hospitality  while  here.  The  donkeys 
are  at  Catumbella  and  hence  I have  to  go  there.  The  Biheans 
come  down  to  Catumbella  and  do  not  come  on  twelve  miles 
farther  to  Benguela. 


THE  OUTLOOK. 

“ I find  that  there  is  really  no  authority  of  the  Portuguese  in 
Bihe,  and  only  a nominal  sway  exercised  a few  miles  from  the 
coast.  However,  the  governor  of  Benguela  is  going  to  give  us 


IO 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


a note  to  the  king  of  Bihe.  It  may  do  good,  and  certainly  no 
harm.  I find  that  there  is  no  question  but  we  can  have  all  the 
communication  with  the  coast  that  we  expected,  namely,  once  a 
month.  It  is  said  that  three  caravans  from  Bihe  are  now 
expected  in  Catumbella,  and  that  these  will  be  on  the  coast  by 
the  middle  of  next  month ; this  will  favor  our  getting  all  the 
porters  we  need.  I intend  to  leave  word  in  Catumbella  of  my 
wish  to  hire  carriage  into  Bihe,  that  I may  have  the  competition 
of  these  three  caravans  to  work  for  economy  in  freight  and  good 
pick  of  men.  I hear  that  three  days’  march  from  here  the 
country  changes  and  the  most  delightful  scenery  is  encountered. 
I hear  that  there  are  miles  of  country  between  here  and  Bihe 
shaded  by  the  trees  and  hanging  creepers  ; such  accounts  come 
to  my  ears  that  I must  see  to  believe  them.  I hear  also  that 
the  Bihdans  are  a fine  people,  strong  and  lusty. 

“ I am  told  that  there  is  ‘ no  quinine  wanted  there.’  I hear 
that  the  climate  is  most  agreeable,  that  the  cold  at  times  is 
sufficient  to  form  ice  or  an  occasional  hail-storm.  Should  this 
be  true  there  is  no  reason  why  the  whole  work  should  not  pros- 
per in  a wonderful  way,  for  such  a climate  will  admit  of  continued 
work  by  the  missionary  and  the  development  of  some  sterling 
qualities  in  the  people.  It  admits  of  living,  and  not  existing 
only. 

“ The  possibility  of  moving  into  Bih^  at  once  on  arrival  of 
next  steamer,  seems  to  be  very  promising,  although  dependent 
on  information  yet  to  be  obtained  from  the  caravans.  But  this 
is  sure  : Benguela  is  no  place  to  stay  in  if  it  can  be  avoided 
during  the  rainy  season,  and  therefore,  and  for  other  reasons, 
all  the  efforts  that  are  possible,  all  the  work  and  endeavor  that 
can  be  brought  to  bear,  all  the  purpose  and  will  that  we  can 
give  to  it  will  be  concentrated  upon  reaching  Bihe  before  the 
heavy  spring  rains. 

“ Of  health  I have  only  one  thing  to  report ; all  embraced  in 
one  word- — good.  We  are  working  away  at  Portuguese.  Mr. 

Sanders  does  well,  Mr.  Miller  something,  and  I myself  scarcely 


BENGUELA . 


I 


have  found  time  for  a beginning.  Ask  those  who  love  our  work 
to  keep  on  praying,  specially  that  we  may  have  very  much  hum- 
bleness of  heart,  so  that  God  may  continually  bless  us,  even  as 
in  the  past.  Send  us  strong  reenforcements  to  reach  Benguela, 
May  i,  1 88 1.  Don’t  fail  to  say  to  the  churches,  Africa  must 
have  men,  for  the  gospel  must  be  preached  to  her  people.” 

BENGUELA. 

Benguela,  the  seaport  of  Bihe,  is  described  by  Mr.  Sanders 
in  his  letter  of  November  19,  1880: 

“ There  are  about  two  hundred  whites  here  and  a few  hundred 
blacks.  There  are  scarcely  any  white  women  in  these  West 
African  cities.  Generally  each  white  household  consists  of  the 
members  of  the  business  firm,  with  whom  the  clerks  board  and 
lodge,  and  the  black  servants,  who  are  many.  This  state  of 
society  gives  rise  to  much  immorality,  drinking,  and  smoking. 
Our  stand,  of  not  taking  wines  or  tobacco,  has  excited  constant 
notice  and  comment.  English  and  Portuguese  unite  in  saying 
that  we  ought  to  take  wine  to  escape  fever.  (Mr.  Newton  and 
Mr.  Seruiya  are  exceptions.  The  latter  says  out  and  out  that  it 
is  not  so.  The  former  said  to  Mr.  Bagster  that  most  of  the 
deaths  among  the  English  on  the  coast  are  due  to  intemperance.) 
We  quietly  began  to  inquire,  and  found  scarcely  one  that  has 
not  had  the  fever.  So  we  do  not  see  why,  if  the  fever  is  sure  to 
come  anyhow,  we  should  sacrifice  our  stand  on  the  temperance 
question.  We  are  in  good  health  and  spirits,  take  all  reasonable 
precautions  against  sickness,  do  not  propose  to  worry  about  the 
fever  beforehand,  and  expect  that  by  living  as  we  ought,  keeping 
clean,  etc.,  we  shall  continue  in  good  health. 

“ It  is  very  pleasant  to  be  by  ourselves  in  a house  that  for  the 
present  we  can  call  our  own.  It  has  three  rooms  and  an  entry. 
The  room  at  the  corner  of  the  house  used  to  be  the  store.  We  have 
some  heavy  boxes  in  there,  and  keep  it  locked  up  most  of  the 
time.  Then  comes  the  hall.  Next  to  that  is  our  dining-room. 


12 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


When  more  goods  are  brought  we  shall  probably  partition  this 
by  a curtain  and  make  a bed-room,  also,  for  two..  The  third 
room  has  two  windows,  as  well  as  the  one  next  to  it,  but  no  out- 
side door.  Here  are  most  of  our  things  now,  here  we  sleep, 
here  we  write  and  shall  work  mostly  for  the  present.  The  floor 
of  this  room  is  paved  with  stones  ; and  a sidewalk  in  Boston  as 
rough  as  this  floor  would  call  out  newspaper  denunciation.  The 
walls  are  about  thirteen  or  fourteen  ^eet  high,  whitewashed  and 
decorated  with  various  articles,  among  which  are  our  heavy, 
brown-tanned,  leather  boots  and  shoes.  So  many  mice  frolic 
about  the  floor  that  we  dare  not  leave  the  leather  articles  within 
their  reach.  These  boots  and  shoes  look  quite  formidable,  and 
it  is  no  wonder  that  the  dogs  are  respectful  when  we  wear  them. 
This  morning  as  I was  preventing  a dog  from  escaping  from  his 
quarters,  he  tried  to  bite.  Getting  hold  of  one  of  these  shoes, 
he  could  only  make  a scratch  on  it,  and  since  then  he  has  been 
very  humble. 

“ We  find  that  the  sea-breeze  commences  early,  or  about  the 
middle  of  the  forenoon.  Blowing  into  our  front  windows  and 
out  of  the  back  door,  it  keeps  the  house  as  cool  and  pleasant 
as  can  be  desired,  even  at  the  hottest  part  of  the  day.  This 
breeze,  the  open  windows  (they  have  no  glass  or  sashes)  and 
doors,  and  the  tile  roof,  keep  us  as  well  ventilated  as  though  we 
were  out  of  doors. 

“ A knowledge  of  Portuguese  will  be  indispensable,  as  we  can 
get  plenty  of  men  who  understand  that  language  and  the  Bihean, 
but  cannot  get  those  who  understand  Bihean  and  English. 
Hence,  I propose  to  give  a little  more  time  to  study  here  than 
I meant  to  do.  I find  this  an  excellent  place  to  practice  also. 
Every  one  takes  it  for  granted  that  I understand  more  than  I 
do ; so,  if  I ask  a question  they  talk  on  as  if  to  a born  Portu- 
guese. I find,  too,  that  they  have  so  much  leisure  that  they  are 
more  than  willing  to  chat  awhile  for  the  fun  of  hearing  my 
blunders.  That  is  all  I care  to  know.  If  they  do  not  feel  that 
it  is  a nuisance  to  have  to  talk  with  me,  I am  willing  to  give 
them  the  fun  for  the  benefit. 


LANGUAGE  AND  CUSTOMS. 


3 


“ Nov.  20.  I have  to  finish  now  this  letter  that  I commenced 
yesterday.  During  the  night  it  began  to  rain,  and  still  it  rains. 
Consequently  it  is  quite  close  this  morning  and  we  await  the 
sea-breeze,  if  it  is  to  come. 

“This  morning  Mr.  Miller  found  in  his  feet  two  jiggers,1  or 
rather  those  little  black  deposits  that  hatch  into  jiggers  No 
harm  ensues  if  they  are  taken  out  promptly.  The  blacks  here 
are  most  miserable  in  their  appearance.  It  is  scarcely  possible 
to  see  fifty  of  them  without  observing  many  toes  either  entirely 
or  partly  gone,  legs  much  swollen,  etc. ; all  due  to  the  neglect  of 
extracting  the  eggs  that  hatch  into  jiggers. 

“ We  find  here  plenty  of  donkeys  of  large  size  and  fine  appear- 
ance ; better  in  fact  than  those  of  Lisbon.  Mr.  Bagster  intends 
shortly  to  see  what  can  be  bought  and  at  what  price.  The 
Lord’s  hand  it  was  that  kept  us  from  getting  donkeys  before, 
and  Kroo  boys  The  former  would  have  been  much  inferior  to 
these,  and  probably  more  expensive,  though  we  do  not  yet  know 
what  these  will  cost.  The  Kroo  boys  would  have  involved  us 
in  a “ woman  palaver  ” at  the  very  first  village,  and  have  been  a 
constant  source  of  difficulty  with  the  natives. 

LANGUAGE  AND  CUSTOMS  IN  BENGUELA. 

“The  language  spoken  by  the  natives  here  is  said  to  be 
exactly  like  that  of  Bihe.  Whether  just  the  same  or  closely 
related  only,  remains  to  be  seen.  Our  boys,  who  are  Cabindas, 
cannot  understand  this  language,  though  we  brought  them  here 
from  so  short  a distance  as  Loanda.  Their  communication, 
except  with  other  Cabindas,  has  to  be  in  Portuguese.  We  try, 
through  their  knowledge  of  this  language,  to  bring  the  truth  to 
them.  I read  a chapter,  or  part  of  one,  to  them  each  morning 
after  breakfast,  and  after  that  the  Lord’s  Prayer.  How  much 
they  understand  I have  not  been  able  to  find  out.  None  of  us 
know  sufficient  Portuguese  to  sound  their  knowledge  of  it. 
They  have  proved  quite  satisfactory  as  servants,  thus  far. 

Chigoe,  the  pulex  penetrans. 


14 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA . 


“ If  the  language  here  is  the  same  as  in  Bihe  it  will  be  possi- 
ble for  us,  as  we  occasionally  have  need  to  come  to  the  coast  on 
business,  to  convert  the  journey  into  a preaching  tour. 

“We  find  that  the  devil  is  not  sleeping  here.  A firm  in 
Catumbella  makes  aguardente  (brandy  or  fire-water),  and  will  in 
a short  time  have  about  seven  hundred  barrels  of  the  poison 
ready  for  sale.  The  steamer  on  which  we  came  brought  appa- 
ratus to  establish  a manufactory  of  aguardente.  This  means 
increased  bondage  to  Satan  on  the  part  of  these  blacks.  Cer- 
tainly the  greed  of  money  must  be  strong  to  cause  men  to  put 
these  poor  people  lower  than  they  are. 

“ The  attention  of  these  people  is  given  wholly  to  trifles. 
This  strikes  us  forcibly  because  in  civilized  lands  business 
is  carried  on  upon  a scale  that  makes  this  seem  like  child’s 
play.  The  natives  from  the  interior  in  most  cases  walk  about 
the  streets  doing  nothing,  or  indolently  sit  in  and  about  the 
shops,  and  long  for  the  liquor  they  are  too  lazy  to  earn.  Some 
women  bring  a few  eggs,  potatoes,  tomatoes,  bananas,  peanuts, 
or  a few  quarts  of  meal  to  market,  and  sit  there  most  of  the  day. 
Thus  most  whom  we  see  spend  their  days.  They  think  only  of 
the  present,  and  their  present  is  a very  small  affair.  Oh,  how 
they  need  the  gospel  to  enlarge  and  bless  them  ! 

“ I do  not  see  how  the  natives  get  much  time  to  sleep.  Each 
evening  we  hear  them  dancing  and  singing.  They  dance  to  the 
beating  of  a drum,  I think.  The  sound  is  such  that  I judge  the 
drum  has  a wooden  head.  It  has  a half  muffled  sound,  lacking 
resonance.  But  the  voices  fully  supply  any  deficiency  in  the 
noise.  Usually  they  keep  it  up  till  at  least  one  o’clock.  This 
morning  it  continued  till  daylight,  and  ended  with  what  seemed, 
by  the  sounds,  to  be  rockets. 

ANTS  AND  SCORPIONS. 

“ Dec.  16.  We  find  ourselves  annoyed  by  the  tropical  pests. 
One  day  Mr.  Bagster  was  moving  some  things,  and  discovered 
white  ants  under  a box.  A thorough  search  showed  them  at 


DISTRIBUTING  NEW  TEST/1  ME  NTS. 


5 


work  under  several  boxes.  Fortunately  most  of  our  things  are 
encased  in  tin.  We  put  such  as  might  be  injured  in  places  of 
safety,  such  as  on  tarred  canvas  or  upon  blocks.  Though  the 
articles  are  safe,  we  wish  to  preserve  the  boxes  also,  as  most  of 
them  are  small  and  will  be  useful  when  we  make  the  loads  for 
transportation  inland. 

“ We  have  been  visited  each  day  also  by  a regiment  of  black 
ants.  They  would  come  in  good  order,  get  the  desired  things, 
and  leave  peaceably  if  let  alone.  One  day  they  were  dosed  with 
dilute  ammonia,  but  received  no  harm.  At  last  one  of  the  boys 
destroyed  them  with  a shovelful  of  coals.  We  discovered  a scor- 
pion and  a centipede  under  some  of  our  boxes,  but  they  are  rare 
here  and  still  are  curiosities. 

“ I saw  the  other  day  a white-headed  old  negro.  He  is  the 
only  old  man  that  I have  seen  among  the  negroes.  I remember 
that  Mr.  Monteiro  says  that  but  few  of  them  reach  old  age,  since, 
being  poorly  clad,  they  are  carried  off  by  consumption.  They 
say  here  that  most  die  of  intemperance.  A negro  will  drink  a 
tumbler  of  aguardente,  which  is  very  fiery,  while  white  men 
usually  seem  to  limit  themselves  to  about  two  or  three  table- 
spoonsful. 

“ Mr.  Bagster  has  sent  to  Mossamedes  for  two  riding  oxen. 
I thought  that  if  I should  ride  on  one  for  some  hours  in  the 
glare  of  the  sun,  facing  it,  since  we  shall  go  east,  I should  be 
good  for  nothing  during  the  remainder  of  the  day.  So  he  did 
not  order  one  for  my  use. 

“ My  eyes  have  improved  much  since  being  here.  Today, 
for  the  first  time,  I had  to  wear  dark  glasses  when  out  of  doors 
about  noon,  and  this  only  because  I used  my  eyes  too  much 
last  night  when  writing.” 

DISTRIBUTING  NEW  TESTAMENTS. 

“Dec.  ij.  Though  I closed  my  letter  yesterday,  I must 
write  of  an  incident  that  just  occurred.  Last  month  we  recorded 
the  fact  that  daily  we  read  a chapter  in  the  New  Testament,  and 


1 6 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


the  Lord’s  Prayer,  in  the  Portuguese,  for  the  sake  of  one  or  two 
Cabindas  To  each  of  them  we  gave  a New  Testament.  These 
boys  are  frequently  visited  by  some  Cabinda  friends.  These 
callers  pass  back  and  forth  through  one  of  the  rooms  many  times 
each  day.  We  asked  them  as  they  did  so  if  they  could  read. 
Some  knew  how,  and  were  asked  if  they  would  like  a book. 
They  in  all  cases  accepted  one.  We  hope  that,  if  for  no  other 
reason,  they  will  read  them  for  the  sake  of  learning  to  read 
better.  Thus  the  truth  will  be  brought  to  them.  One  of  our 
boys  can  read  well ; the  other  seems  to  be  learning.  These 
Cabindas  who  have  contact  with  Europeans  seem  to  have  at 
least  some  faint  conception  of  the  value  of  knowing  how  to  read 
and  write. 

“ The  incident  that  pleased  us  so  this  morning  is  the  follow- 
ing : An  old  man  came  and  asked  for  a Testament.  He  was  in 
our  neighborhood  overseeing  a gang  of  street  cleaners.  We 
suppose  that  some  of  the  few  books  distributed  must  have  been 
seen  by  him,  for  we  had  not  spoken  with  him.  We  gave  him  a 
Bible  and  a Testament.  He  seemed  very  much  pleased  to 
receive  them  and  asked  what  he  should  pay.  We  did  not  take 
any  pay,  though  now  I think  we  should  have  taken  a small 
price.  He  expressed  himself  as  “ Sempre  obrigado  ” (ever 
obliged),  and  said  he  would  take  much  delight  in  reading  them. 
The  offer  of  pay  pleased  us,  as  it  showed  him  to  be  no  agent  of 
the  priest. 

“ In  St.  Vincent,  Cape  de  Verde  Islands,  we  were  told  that 
the  priest  gave  a worshiper  who  brought  him  a Bible,  an 
especial  blessing.  Hence  the  application  for  Bibles,  when 
freely  distributed,  was  as  brisk  as  could  be  desired.  There  they 
questioned  the  wisdom  of  giving  freely  in  places  where  the 
priests  exercise  much  control.  We  trust  that  the  Word  sent 
forth  here,  though  it  must  be  without  much  explanation,  and 
among  those  who  have  not  a large  vocabulary  of  Portuguese 
words,  will  bear  fruit  unto  eternal  life. 

“This  morning  a man  came  and  wished  to  be  hired  as 


REGARDED  AS  TRADERS. 


17 


guide.  He  lives  in  Bihe,  and  he  expressed  a hope  that  when 
in  Bihe  we  would  trade  with  him  only.  I explained  that  we 
are  not  going  for  trade.  He  persisted,  saying  that  he  deals  in 
wax,  gum,  ivory,  slaves,  etc.  I told  him  again  that  our  purpose 
is  to  teach  the  people.  He  laughed  in  an  incredulous  manner, 
but  tried  no  more  to  secure  us  as  customers.  He  said  that  the 
country  is  well  wooded  and  populous ; a very  fine  place  to  live 
in,  he  thinks. 

“ His  incredulity  when  we  say  that  we  are  missionaries  and 
have  not  come  for  trade,  is  very  much  like  the  Portuguese. 
They  are  accustomed  to  see  a priest  sent  here  with  nothing. 

The  little  money  for  a third-class  passage  on  the  steamer  is 
almost  considered  a waste ; for  when  here  he  is  said  to  set  a 
very  bad  example  by  keeping  two  or  three  concubines.  Hence 
they  think  religion  a very  poor  article,  and  not  worth  a great 
outlay  of  money.  Consequently  they  do  not  understand  how 
people  in  America  can  be  willing  to  send  us  with  such  an  outfit 
on  a religious  mission.  They  are  inclined  to  believe  that  we 
are  on  some  political  or  commercial  errand,  and  are  trying  to 
outwit  them. 

“ Some  days  ago  the  governor  of  this  place  called  upon  us. 

He  seemed  to  be  pleased  with  the  sight  of  some  of  our  things.  He 
advised  us  again  to  go  to  Mossamedes  and  stay  there  until  May. 
Though  admitting  that  we  can  get  to  Bihe  in  January,  he  said 
we  should  not  be  well  prepared  for  the  rains.  However  feasible 
his  plan  seems  to  him,  it  is  out  of  the  question  for  us.  It  would 
be  better  to  stay  here,  if  necessary,  and  risk  the  fever  than  to 
go  to  Mossamedes,  now  that  so  many  of  our  things  are  out  of 
the  custom-house.  But  there  seems  to  be  no  good  reason  why 
we  should  not  go  in  next  month.  The  highest  estimate  of  the 
time  needed  to  get  to  Bihe  is  fifteen  days ; some  say  twelve. 

“ One  night  I was  taken  ill,  and  was  not  well  enough  to  be  up 
next  day.  They  call  it  * the  fever,’  but  if  so  the  fever  is  not 
very  serious.  I did  not  really  believe  it  was  that,  but  today  one 
of  the  boys  is  in  the  same  condition,  and_£sked  for  quinine  for 

/ X' 

(theological  seminary. 


i8 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


the  fever.  We  are  told  that  the  recovery  is  much  more  rapid 
here  than  in  Europe.  Mr.  Seruiya  said  that  at  Gibraltar  he 
regained  his  strength  after  about  a month  ; here,  in  two  or  three 
days  all  effects  of  the  fever  pass  away.” 

PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  INWARD  MARCH. 

Mr.  Bagster,  in  a letter  of  December  4-15,  1880,  says : 

“ Brother  Sanders  is  now  well ; has  only  had  one  slight  attack 
of  fever,  or  something  of  the  sort.  Brother  Miller  is  well  and, 
with  very  slight  exception,  has  been  so.  I am  without  exception 
well.  Our  household  contains  two  Cabinda  boys  ; they  do 
fairly,  so  far,  but  have  had  an  easy  time.  There  has  been 
added  to  our  outfit  since  last  I wrote,  four  donkeys.  They  are 
doing  well,  but  are  not  yet  accustomed  to  loads,  and  have  to  be 
proved.  Our  present  occupation  is  preparing  for  a start ; but 
as  there  is  much  to  be  done  and  intelligent  help  is  not  to  be 
had,  the  work  falls  upon  Mr.  Sanders  and  myself,  and  as  the 
number  of  things  needing  attention  is  very  great,  the  result  is 
that,  notwithstanding  early  and  late  work,  but  little  progress  can 
be  made. 

“ Eight  days  since  I went  to  the  little  town  of  Catumbella, 
about  twelve  miles  from  here,  for  the  purpose  of  purchasing 
donkeys  and  of  learning  what  could  be  learnt  about  the  journey 
into  Bihe.  Catumbella  is  the  growth  resulting  from  the  fact 
that  one  of  the  Benguela  merchants,  some  years  since,  thinking 
to  stop  the  caravans  coming  from  the  interior  before  they 
reached  Benguela,  established  a branch  store  there  and  drew 
after  him  all  the  trade  and  all  the  merchants  to  do  the  trade. 
It  was  a bad  move.  Now  the  trade  that  used  to  come  to 
Benguela  is  stopped  in  Catumbella,  and  the  great  numbers  of 
natives  who  come  from  the  interior  remain  at  this  place,  never 
even  reaching  Benguela.  To  this  place  I went  and  bought  four 
donkeys  for  $180. 

“ We  have  now  much  more  true  knowledge  of  Bihe  than 


THE  ROAD  INLAND. 


9 


before ; for  I saw  hundreds  of  Biheans  at  Catumbella,  and 
heard  very  much  about  them  and  their  ways. 

“ I learned  that  when  we  landed  in  Benguela  letters  were 
written  to  Catumbella  to  tell  of  our  arrival,  and  to  say  that,  as 
it  was  against  the  interests  of  trade  to  allow  us  to  reach  Bihe, 
nothing  would  be  easier  than  to  let  some  of  those  tribes  on  the 
road  know,  in  order  to  put  us  out  of  the  way ; or  as  others  had 
it,  not  let  us  pass.  All  that  I replied  to  these  things  was  this  : 
We  have  safely  reached  Benguela.  We  are  not  stopped  yet, 
and  we  purpose  to  go  on  into  Bihe.  There  was  a much  quieter 
tone  manifested  when  these  ideas  were  advanced. 

“ From  some  persons  in  Catumbella  I received  thorough 
kindness.  A Mr.  Mark  de  A.  Seruiya  showed  me  most  kind 
attention.  Mr.  Seruiya  is  an  English  subject,  born  at  Gibraltar. 
Mr.  Bensande  also  showed  me  most  'hearty  kindness.  He  is  an 
Englishman,  and  head  of  a firm  doing  business  in  Catumbella. 
He  sent  for  a man  named  Barros,  a Bihean,  who  went  in  with 
De  Serpa  Pinto.  We  had  a long  talk  with  him,  and  not  .only 
learned  much  about  ways  and  customs  and  needs,  but  also  have 
hopes  of  being  able  to  hire  Barros  for  the  journey,  and  perhaps 
longer.  He  appears  to  be  a most  valuable  man.  He  knows  all 
the  road,  all  the  people,  is  a fine  specimen  of  humanity,  and 
thoroughly  well-recommended. 

“ I will  now  run  through  briefly  the  substance  of  information 
gathered  about  the  trip.  From  Benguela  to  Bihe  takes  twelve 
days’  travel ; that  is,  about  fifteen  on  the  road.  There  are  five 
rivers  to  cross,  but  they  are  all  passable  except  about  the  month 
of  March,  when  they  are  too  high  and  turbulent.  Usually  they 
are  only  such  as  the  porters  can  wade  through,  although  all  are 
now  supplied  with  boats  to  put  over  passengers.  I also  found 
that  the  month  of  January  is  good  to  move  inland,  because  of 
the  new  supply  of  corn  and  other  crops  then  coming  into  market, 
while  now  there  is  a scarcity.  The  best  time,  however,  in  all 
the  year  to  make  the  journey  is  May.  It  might  be  possible  to 
get  carriers  here  (at  Catumbella),  but  the  safest  way  is  to  send 


20 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


to  the  king  of  Bailunda  for  him  to  send  down  carriers  who  will 
take  all  loads  into  Bihe.  The  Bailunda  men  will  go  into  Bihe 
for  extra  pay,  and  will  thus  save  great  trouble  on  the  way. . 

“ It  will  take  twenty  days  to  get  carriers  from  Bailunda. 
There  is  no  object  that  I can  see  to  be  gained  in  staying  here. 
There  is  a bad  rainy  season  to  meet  between  now  and  May, 
expenses  of  living,  and  loss  of  time.  Of  course  I do  not  mean 
that  we  could  not  be  well  employed  in  the  study  of  the  language, 
etc.,  but  then  this  can  be  done  better  in  Bihe.  The  same  lan- 
guage is  spoken  here  as  in  Bihd,  namely,  Ambunda.  There  is 
much  difficulty  in  getting  intelligent  answers  to  questions  here 
because  they  know  so  much  Portuguese  and  have  mixed  it  up  so 
thoroughly  with  their  own  tongue. 

“ There  are  three  sobas  (chiefs  or  kings)  through  whose  lands 
we  have  to  pass  on  the  road  to  Bihd,  and  to  whom  a present 
will  have  to  be  paid.  I am  assured  by  some  that  we  cannot  go 
into  Bihe  without  making  presents  of  rum.  But  when  told  that 
we.  cannot  do  this,  but  that  nevertheless  we  are  going  to  Bihe, 
then  they  say,  “ Well,  then,  you  will  have  to  pay  double  in  other 
things.,,  Money  is  useless  when  we  leave  Catumbella ; then, 
cloth  and  beads  and  such  things  are  the  articles  of  barter. 

“ I am  also  told  that  the  customs  of  the  people  are  very 
strange  in  some  regards;  that  they  are  very  quick  to  take 
offence,  and  that  their  mode  of  doing  is  to  fine  the  one  who 
displeases  them,  and  that  they  do  so  in  royal  style.  Sometimes 
all  that  a man  or  party  has  is  confiscated  at  one  sweep,  for  some 
petty  breach  of  etiquette,  and  that  when  there  is  no  intention  of 
giving  offence. 

“ Then  there  is  another  thing.  I am  told  that  unless  the  king 
of  Bihe  takes  a liking  to  us  he  will  not  allow  us  to  stay  in  his 
country  at  any  price.  We,  however,  confidently  expect  not  only 
to  go  into  Bihe,  but  to  stay  there  and  to  possess  the  land  in  the 
name  of  our  God. 

“ I did  not  say,  I believe,  that  we  can  take  donkeys  in  without 
any  great  difficulty.  I expect  to  take  those  we  now  have,  four, 


ANTS— MISSIONARIES,  NOT  COLONISTS. 


2 


and  perhaps  some  more.  Our  pack-saddles  are  out  and  fitted  and 
work  well.  Our  intention  is  to  take  in  as  little  of  the  stores  as 
possible.  I am  assured  that  there  is  no  danger  of  white  ants  in 
the  custom-house,  and  there  certainly  is  not  at  present  any  indi- 
cation of  their  being  there,  but  in  this  house  nothing  is  safe. 
We  have  to  look  at  boxes,  etc.,  every  two  or  three  days.  When 
there  is  any  danger  of  these  little  pests,  the  only  safety  for  goods 
is  tin-lined  cases,  and  the  only  way  to  make  quite  sure  of  bales 
is  to  have  them  packed  in  tarred  canvas  — and  this  most  care- 
fully. I had  these  things  done  in  England,  but  I did  not  think 
that  the  ants  would  hurt  beads , and  these  are  only  in  wooden 
boxes  and  will  no  doubt  suffer,  as  the  ants  eat  out  all  the 
threads,  and  leave  the  beads  loose  and  not  so  valuable,  nor  so 
handy. 

“ I am  thinking  somewhat  of  sending  to  Mossamedes  for  two 
riding  oxen  ; they  are  to  be  obtained  there  cheap,  but  here  they 
are  not  to  be  found.  There  are  plenty  of  cattle  on  the  road  to 
Bihe,  but  no  certainty  yet  of  how  plentiful  they  are  in  Bihe. 

“ During  the  past  weeks  there  has  grown  up  a better  feeling 
toward  us.  The  people  have  now  made  up  their  minds  that  we 
are  what  we  represent  ourselves  to  be,  and  not,  as  they  supposed 
and  obstinately  believed  that  we  were,  the  first  of  a lot  of  Amer- 
ican colonists  who  were  going  inland  to  open  a new  trade,  and 
establish  a new  town,  and  cut  off  all  their  customers  before  they 
reached  the  coast.  Now  we  are,  in  their  view,  only  a well  out- 
fitted party  of  missionaries,  to  be  looked  upon  with  wonder,  and 
as,  beyond  all  comprehension,  insane  and  rather  dangerous ; 
but  as  we  are  here,  and  cannot  very  well  be  turned  back  now, 
and  as  we  are  not  quite  so  contemptible  as  they  would  like  us 
to  be,  they  will  treat  us  well  to  our  faces,  laugh  at  us  behind 
our  backs,  and  impose  on  us  financially  on  all  possible  occa- 
sions. 

“ Since  I wrote  the  first  part  of  this  letter,  I have  seen  and 
hired  the  man  spoken  of  for  the  purpose  of  guide  and  factotum 
for  the  journey  into  Bihe'.  He  bears  a splendid  character  as  a 


22 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


guide  and  as  a man  to  deal  with  the  natives,  but  does  not  have 
any  character  for  honesty,  and  does  not  fail  to  get  too  full  when 
drink/ can  be  obtained.  He  has  now  promised  to  keep  sober, 
and  has  done  so  for  some  time. 

“The  question  is  yet  an  open  one  as  to  the  best  mode  of 
getting  carriers.  Some  doubt  has  been  thrown  on  the  question 
of  sending  to  Bihe  or  Bailunda.  How  to  do  I am  not  yet  sure, 
but  please  remember  that  we  are  in  Africa  and  not  in  America ; 
that  we  have  to  deal  with  the  Portuguese  colonists  and  natives, 
and  that  they  are  slow,  slower , slowest ; that  to  move  such  a 
force  is  not  any  child’s  play ; that  we  are  only  just  arrived 
here  and  communication  is  very  difficult.  To  illustrate : Ca- 
tumbella,  twelve  miles  away,  can  only  be  reached  by  special 
messenger,  and  therefore  two  days,  one  to  go  and  one  to  return, 
are  needed  for  any  reply.  One  thing  seems  now  to  be  certain  : 
whatever  is  finally  adopted,  there  is  no  question  but  we  shall 
find  the  best  way,  for  we  are  constantly  enjoying  the  sense  of 
our  Father’s  hand  leading  us  and  opening  our  way,  just  as  fast 
as  he  wishes  us  to  go.  Sometimes  we  find  that  our  way  would 
be  to  go  faster  than  the  Lord  would  have  us  go.” 

VEXATIOUS  DELAYS  FOR  LACK  OF  CARRIERS. 

The  new  year  of  1881  found  them  still  in  Benguela.  January 
7,  Mr.  Bagster  says  : 

“ You  may  think  that  we  are  unnecessarily  delaying  in  this 
place ; but  I think,  were  you  here,  you  would  see  that  everything 
has  been  done  that  could  be  done,  to  hasten  our  departure  from 
this  unhealthy  place  for  the  universally  declared  healthy  region 
of  Bihe'. 

“ I have  found  extreme  difficulty  in  securing  a guide,  and  it  is 
practicably  impossible  to  go  into  Bihe  without  a guide  who  can 
speak  the  native  language ; for  we  find  but  very  few  who  speak 
Portuguese,  on  the  road  this  side  of  Bihe  ; and  the  advantage  is 
great  of  having  a guide  who  knows  the  Sobas  and  can  treat  with 
them. 


SECURING  A GUIDE. 


23 


“ I have  been  working  for  the  only  two  guides  that  were  rec- 
ommended in  the  smallest  degree. 

“First.  Barros  agreed  to  go;  but  I. heard  such  a bad  account 
of  his  drinking  and  stealing  that,  although  he  was  recommended 
very  highly  as  a guide,  when  I heard  of  a far  better  man  and  as 
good  a guide,  I attempted  to  hire, 

“Second.  Verissimo  Jose  Gon9alves,  and  thought  everything 
was  arranged  to  the  satisfaction  of  both  parties ; but  to  my 
surprise,  he.  returned  to  Catumbella  without  even  a word  to  me 
— either  yes  or  no.  Then  I went  down  to  Catumbella,  and, 
not  hearing  of  any  one  else  who  would  do,  I offered  Gonsalves 
I * better  terms,  and  again  we  parted  with  the  brightest  prospect 
of'  his  going  with  us.  That  night  he  sent  us  a note  positively 
declining  to  go. 

“Third.  I sent  for  the  man  Barros  (he  is  a Bihean), 
and  having  told  him  why  I was  afraid  of  him,  we  talked  the 
matter  over,  and  when  every  point  was  arranged,  he  agreed  to 
take  us  to  Bihe.  I then  returned  to  Benguela  to  get  an  agree- 
ment drawn  up,  and  having  done  so  (it  could  not  be  done  in 
Catumbella)  sent  it  to  a friend  in  Catumbella,  who  read  it  over 
to  the  man  Barros,  who  agreed  to  it  and  promised  to  be  here  to 
begin  January  1st,  and  to  sign  the  agreement  at  the  notary’s. 
This  is  the  6th,  and  no  Barros.  On  the  4th  I sent  a messenger 
to  Catumbella  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  delay,  and  hope  to  see 
him  back  today. 

“ As  I found  so  much  difficulty  in  hiring  a guide  I did  not 
send  for  porters  ; but  when  I had  hired  Barros,  then  I at  once 
sent  to  Bihe  for  porters.  The  messenger  got  started,  after 
many  delays,  on  the  31st  of  December,  and  now  we  look  for  the 
porters  between  the  20th  and  30th  instant.  Today  we  have  no 
guide.  But  then  ‘The  Lord  reigneth,’  and  he  looks  only  for 
the  best  service  that  his  servants  can  give.  And  so  we  trust ; 
and  however  crooked  the  way  looks  to  us,  yet  it  is  the  right  way. 

“ I have  now  for  about  eighteen  days  been  scarcely  free  from 
fever  and  chills,  and  again  yesterday  had  to  call  in  the  doctor. 


24 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


Today  I am  better,  and  hope  to  continue  to  improve.  I have, 
however,  had  a very  severe  attack,  notwithstanding  all  precau- 
tions. It  is  a trial  of  faith,  to  lie  upon  the  bed  and  see  so  much 
needing  to  be  done.  But  ‘ My  strength  ’ ‘ thy  weakness.’  Ben- 
guela  is  a very  unhealthy  place.  I do  not  know  of  a Portuguese 
who  has  not  had  fever  since  we  came.  The  Portuguese  looked 
for  us  to  have  fever  before  we  had  been  here  one  week.  The 
doctor  who  has  been  attending  me  since  the  third  day  is  a fairly 
good  .physician,  and  can  be  said  to  understand  the  fever.  My 
greatest  trouble  has  been  my  head ; it  has  been  extremely  bad. 
Now  I hope  that  I am  improving  and  that  I shall  be  able  for 
the  work  as  it  comes  along.” 

January  14th,  1881,  he  wrote: 

“ Brother  Sanders  and  Miller  continue  well.  I am  nearly 
myself  again  and  daily  feel  new  strength  and  health,  although 
at  times  I find  my  head  a little  troublesome.  I believe,  how- 
ever, with  care,  that  I shall  rejoice  in  strength  by  the  time 
the  march  begins  inland. 

“Indeed,  wonderful  has  been  the  leading  of  the  Lord,  and 
truly  when  my  thought  returns  to  it  from  time  to  time  there 
comes  to  me  this  confidence : if  the  past  is  thus  and  thus,  how 
absolute  should  be  our  confidence  for  the  future  ! And  the  eye 
will  fill  with  joy  and  the  heart  run  over  with  thanksgiving.  All 
of  grace. 

“ How  glad  we  should  be  to  see  the  physician,  I can  hardly 
tell  you;  and  yet  we  can  say,  He  doeth  all  things  well.  You 
may  be  sure,  however,  that  the  right  man,  when  he  comes,  will 
be  indeed  ‘the  beloved  physician.’ 

“ We  have  already  heard  that  we  are  to  be  invited  to  remain 
at  Belmont,  Mr.  Silva  Porto’s  place,  during  the  rains ; but  this 
needs  confirmation.  We  should  otherwise  build  a roof  of  poles 
and  thatch  over  our  tents  and  be  very  snug. 

“There  has  been  much  kindness  shown  us.  Mr.  Seruiya 


READY  TO  DEPART. 


25 


wrote  to  the  king  of  Bihe  in  the  first  place  in  my  name  for  por- 
ters. Not  content  with  this,  he  wrote  again  on  his  own  account 
and  also  to  two  of  his  friends  in  Bihe  to  go  and  see  the  king 
and  hasten  the  porters.  I have  heard  today  that  our  messen- 
ger who  left  December  31st  has  reached  Bihe'.  We  are  busy 
preparing  the  loads  and  packing  up.  There  is  an  immense 
amount  of  work  to  be  done  even  now.  Today  we  looked  out 
for  the  presents  for  the  king  of  Bailunda,  and  two  small  sobas 
on  the  way.  I find  a very  small  present  does  for  these,  and 
have  added  somewhat  to  the  king  of  Bailunda’s  present,  as  from 
all  accounts  we  may  find  it  a very  advantageous  thing  to  have 
the  station  by  the  way  established  there,  and  we  must  win  the 
king  on  this  first  trip.  The  country  is  said  to  be  as  fine  or  finer 
than  Bihe.  We  pray  for  the  continual  blessing  of  our  God,  for 
we  evidently  are  wonderfully  blest. 

“Your  grant  of  Bibles  and  Testaments  has  been  remarkably 
called  for,  and  I believe  will  do  much  good. 

“ I must  close  with  this  word  : We  continually  praise  God, 
and  gather  much  strength  from  so  doing.  We  are  going  one 
step  at  a time,  but  each  one  in  simple  dependence  on  Him.” 

TRIAL  TRIP  TO  CATUMBELLA FEVER BIBLE  DISTRIBUTION. 

Mr.  Sanders  writes,  December  23,  1880,  to  January  20,  1881  : 

“ On  Sunday  a riding  ox  was  delivered.  Two  were  ordered, 
but  Mr.  Margnese’s  agent  could  find  only  one  that  fulfilled  the 
requisite  conditions.  It  cost  $36.00,  but  with  all  charges  cost 
us  here  $44.00.  It  is  in  excellent  trim,  gentle  and  well-trained. 
Monday  night  Mr.  Bagster  put  on  it  the  really  good  saddle  that 
he  had  made,  while  I strapped  an  empty  sack  on  the  strongest 
donkey.  Neither  was  inclined  to  go  as  fast  as  we  wished  just 
at  first,  but  very  soon  the  ox  did  as  he  was  required.  Then  we 
tried  following  the  donkey  with  the  ox.  It  worked  perfectly. 
He  trotted  off  so  briskly  that  the  ox  was  left  well  in  the  rear. 
On  the  following  day  Mr.  Bagster  rode  the  ox  to  the  ‘ alfandega  ’ 


2 6 


WEST  CENTRA L AFRICA. 


(custom-house).  It  was  much  admired  there.  When  he  returned 
he  complained  of  the  excessive  heat  and  sat  about  or  lay  down 
during  the  rest  of  the  day.  During  the  night  he  had  fever 
which  was  connected  with  severe  pain  in  the  head  and  in  all  the 
bones. 

“ At  four  o’clock  promptly  one  of  our  corrigadores  aroused 
us.  Mr.  Bagster  felt  a little  better,  so  we  decided  to  go.  At 
about  a quarter  to  five  we  were  off.  At  once  the  carriers  began 
to  shout.  At  first  I felt  like  criticising  the  fellows  and  drawing 
thence  a proof  of  how  childish  and  simple  they  are.  Bethinking 
myself  of  the  tifne  when  a freshman  class,  with  about  the  same 
average  age,  used  to  delight  in  shouts  and  yells,  I refrained. 

“ There  are  six  men  to  each  tepoia.  They  replace  each  other 
about  once  in  six  rods.  The  changes  are  so  arranged  that  each 
one  takes  his  turn  behind  at  the  heavy  end  as  well  as  in  front. 
With  increasing  light  came  the  opportunity  of  more  closely 
examining  the  carriers.  Their  heads  were  dressed  in  various 
ways,  but  all  quite  simple.  The  most  elaborate  had  the  hair 

parted  in  the  middle ; then  from  that  about  thirty-five  braids 

extended  down  the  sides  and  back  of  the  head,  giving  it  the 
effect  of  alternate  ridges  and  furrows.  Most  wore  some  charm 
about  the  neck  and  wrists,  or  a rattle  encircling  the  leg  between 

the  knee  and  calf.  This  last  is  said  to  scare  away  snakes. 

These  men  carry  the  tepoia  at  a slow  trot.  The  exclamation 
b-r-r-r-r-r,  of  disgust,  is  very  frequent  when  a man  takes  the 
heavy  end.  It  always  sounds  funny  to  the  person  carried. 
When  two  good  men  take  hold  they  run  quite  rapidly  for  a few 
rods.  Most  of  them  take  the  slow  trot.  It  is  found  that  if  they 
keep  step  it  is  harder  to  carry. 

“The  distance  to  Catumbella  is  variously  estimated  at  from 
ten  to  fifteen  miles.  It  is  a monotonous  trip.  Here  and  there 
we  met  travelers,  and  then  the  greeting  ‘ mui  ’ was  passed. 
Just  before  reaching  Catumbella  we  stopped  to  look  at  some 
donkeys.  While  waiting  to  have  them  brought  in  we  were 
taken  through  one  of  the  three  aguardente  distilleries.  In  one 


CATUMBELLA. 


27 


room  was  the  crusher ; then  the  juice  of  the  sugar-cane  passed 
intoafermenting-room,  and  the  still  was  in  a room  beyond.  This 
mill  belongs  to  the  house  where  we  were  entertained  a few  days. 
Having  picked  our  donkeys  we  walked  to  the  ferry  near  by.  In 
the  river  are  many  alligators.  The  manager  of  the  mill  said  that 
several  blacks  are  killed  by  them  every  year.  He  has  seen 
them  knock  over  a person  stooping  down  to  dip  up  or  to  drink 
the  water.  Higher  up  the  river  among  the  mountains  they  are 
said  to  be  scarce. 

“ Entering  Catumbella  we  found  it  more  compact  than  Ben- 
guela  and  not  nearly  as  pleasant.  The  few  streets  are  narrow, 
and  have  not  so  many  trees. 

“ We  stopped  with  Mr.  Borders  for  breakfast.  Mr.  Bagster 
was  taken  with  dizziness,  and  went  to  Mr.  Borders’s  room  and 
laid  down.  The  conversation  of  the  people  who  came  in  was 
for  the  most  part  about  our  expected  journey.  Much  unasked 
advice  was  given.  First,  they  said  we  shall  act  like  madmen  if 
no  aguardente  is  taken,  for  the  chiefs  or  sobas.  The  expense, 
they  argued,  would  be  trifling.  Mr.  Borders  explained  that  we 
intend  to  abstain  from  giving  liquor,  not  on  account  of  expense, 
but  from  principle.  At  this  they  could  but  shrug  their  shoul- 
ders. Mr.  Borders  said  that,  though  taking  no  stock  in  our 
beliefs  or  purposes,  he  wishes  us  well  for  our  own  sakes,  and 
would,  therefore,  like  to  see  us  avoid  butting  our  heads  against 
a stone  wall.  None  of  these  men  believe  that  “the  king’s  heart 
is  in  the  hand  of  the  Lord,  as  the  rivers  of  water.” 

“ We  found  Mr.  Bagster  feeling  better,  so  we  looked  at  a few 
of  the  curiosities  in  the  room.  A sword  showed  that  some- 
where inland  the  people  have  considerable  skill  in  working  iron. 
Especially  interesting  was  a “ merimba.”  It  is  a musical  instru- 
ment frequently  met  with  among  the  natives.  On  a little  board 
about  six  by  four  inches  is  fastened,  sometimes  one,  sometimes 
two  rows  of  long  thin  pieces  of  iron.  They  are  fastened  on  with 
a sort  of  iron  rivets  or  nails.  The  curious  fact  is  that  many  me- 
rimbas  have  the  first  six  notes  of  the  diatonic  scale  almost  per- 


28 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


fectly.  Beyond  that  none  of  the  six  or  seven  that  I examined 
could  go  at  all  with  correctness.  The  best  of  them  had  about 
fourteen  or  sixteen  notes. 

“ Finding  that  tepoia  poles  are  sold  at  Catumbella,  and  not 
in  Benguela,  we  went  to  get  some.  We  walked  up  the  street  to 
where  the  gentio  come  in  from  the  interior,  and  where  we  must 
go  when  we  set  out.  The  path  passes  up  a steep  hill,  and  then 
along  the  ridge,  until  at  the  distance  of  about  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  or  a mile,  it  passes  over  a hill-top  and  out  of  sight.  At 
the  side  of  the  road  were  quite  a number  of  men  just  arranging 
their  things  for  the  return  inland.  Their  clean,  bright  cloths 
formed  a great  contrast  to  the  dirty  rags  of  the  incoming  barba- 
rian. Having  entered  the  house,  bought  some  poles,  and  re- 
turned to  the  door,  we  seated  ourselves.  There,  looking  toward 
the  interior  of  the  house,  we  could  see  men  sacking  the  salt  they 
had  obtained.  We  also  noticed  here  a peculiar  custom  of  the 
natives.  A man  wishing  to  pass  through  the  midst  of  us, 
stooped  forward  as  he  went,  and  also  kept  snapping  thumb  and 
finger  until  beyond  the  last.  The  hand  was  held  forward  and 
about  as  high  as  the  knee.  This  seems  to  be  their  way  of  say- 
ing, ‘ Excuse  my  passing  in  front  of  you.’ 

“ About  noon  we  started  homeward  to  Benguela.  Mr.  Bag- 
ster  felt  quite  unwell,  and  preferred  to  be  there  if  about  to  have 
a season  of  sickness.  Today  he  has  been  abed  nearly  all  the 
time,  having  several  alternations  of  chills  and  fever.  He  de- 
clares he  is  not  so  badly  off  as  he  has  seen  othe’rs.  He  is  badly 
enough  off,  I think. 

“Today,  I went  to  the  tabelliao  (notary)  to  have  an  agree- 
ment with  Barros  drawn  up.  I saw  in  his  house  one  of  the 
Bibles  we  gave  away.  It  lay,  not  in  a dark  corner  and  covered 
with  dust,  but  on  the  center-table  in  the  sitting-room.  He 
asked  that  I would  sell  or  give  him  one  (this  was  given  to  one 
of  his  employes),  though  it  is  his  wife,  he  explained,  who  desires 
it.  Taking  warning  from  the  last  case,  I said  I would  be  very 
glad  to  present  him  with  one. 


FEVER. 


29 


“Dec.  28.  Our  Christmas  was  a little  different  from  what  we 
could  have  wished.  Mr.  Bensande  had  invited  us  to  Catum- 
bella  to  dinner.  Christmas  morning,  however,  Mr.  Bagster  had 
a very  bad  chill,  so  we  sent  for.  a physician.  He  called  three 
times  that  day,  twice  the  next,  and  once  on  Monday,  when  Mr. 
Bagster  asked  me  to  send  him  a note  saying  that  we  would  let 
him  know  if  there  should  be  more  need  of  his  services.  At  the 
same  time  we  called  another  physician,  under  whose  treatment 
he  is  far  better  today,  Tuesday.  He  has  had  intense  pain  in  the 
head  for  five  or  six  days,  but  is  better  now.  Last  night  he  was 
delirious  for  an  hour  or  two.  The  fever  was  remittent.  The 
first  doctor  was  going  on  the  plan  of  large  doses  and  starvation. 
Mr.  Bagster’s  homeopathic  instincts  revolted  at  such  treatment. 
This  other  encourages  eating,  even  more  so  than  the  pa- 
tient would  advocate,  while  the  quantity  of  medicine  is  much 
smaller. 

“ Mr.  Bensande,  of  Catumbella,  wrote  on  Christmas  day  that 
the  messenger  to  Bihe  for  porters  had  already  been  sent.  This 
will  enable  us  to  start,  perhaps,  by  the  middle  of  January.  I 
imagine  that  in  any  case  we  shall  be  caught  in  the  rains.  Per- 
haps they  will  hold  off  a few  days  however.  Mr.  Seruiya  wrote 
at  the  same  time  to  a friend  in  Bihe  to  hurry  matters  as  much 
as  possible. 

“ yan.  4,  1881.  I recollect  that  when  on  the  steamer,  we 
pictured  ourselves  as  well  in  on  our  journey  by  this  time.  Al- 
ready the  great  potentate  of  Bihe  was  to  have  been  sitting 
expectant.  As  facts  really  stand,  he  probably  has  not  heard 
from  us.  Word  came  from  Mr.  Bensande  on  the  31st  that  the 
messenger  for  porters  had  started  only  the  day  before.  Nearly 
six  days  he  waited  that  he  might  be  able  to  attach  himself  to 
some  company  of  travellers. 

“ We  begin  to  fear  that  Barros,  our  guide,  has  given  us  the 
slip.  It  is  already  three  days  since  he  was  to  come.  We  shall 
feel  quite  annoyed  if  there  be  difficulty  on  this  score. 

“On  the  3d  of  January  were  delivered  four  more  donkeys. 


30 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


We  were  gratified  that  they  were  not  brought  on  Sunday.  That 
has  been  the  time  for  such  business  so  frequently,  that  we  really 
expected  the  same  thing  this  time.  The  donkeys  brought  at  first 
are  in  a fine  condition.  Tonight,  after  dinner,  I put  on  one  of 
them  a little  canvas  saddle  that  I made  yesterday.  It  is  a very 
simple  affair,  that  took  about  half  an  hour  for  construction,  but 
gives  a firm  seat.  The  donkey  started  off  finely,  but  soon  had  a 
mind  of  his  own.  We  failed  to  agree  as  to  the  route.  As  I 
only  had  a halter,  he  gave  much  trouble.  After  considerable 
struggling,  I cuffed  his  ears,  after  which  he  was  quite  tractable, 
and  trotted  as  well  as  a donkey  can. 

“ The  way  we  buy  grass  for  our  beasts  is  ridiculous.  Several 
women  bring  some  bunches  on  their  heads.  One  of  our  boys  is 
the  regular  buyer,  and  pays  from  three  to  six  cents  a bunch. 
This  morning  the  fellow  was  quite  drunk.  (We  let  them  go  to 
a supper,  on  promise  of  an  early  return.  They  came  in  at  six, 
a.m.)  I thought  it  would  be  better  for  me  to  buy  this  morning 
on  that  account.  So  I went  out,  and  paid  seven  and  a half  cents 
apiece  for  two  bunches,  six  for  another,  and  four  and  a half  for 
another.  He  was  around  in  a minute  or  two,  as  vexed  as  could 
be,  declaring  that  I had  given  one  and  a half  cents  too  much 
for  those  ; that  they  were  worth  only  six  cents.  Some  more  hay- 
venders  coming  just  then,  I reinstated  him  in  his  office.  After 
spending  half  an  hour  in  ‘bearing’  the  market,  he  brought 
prices  to  their  normal  position  again.  We  have  to  be  particular 
about  these  trifling  expenses  since  they  are  so  many  that  small 
differences  in  price  count  up  a good  deal  in  the  long  run. 

“ Mr.  Bagster  recovered  from  his  fever  so  as  to  be  well  on 
New  Year.  Yet  he  has  not  been  really  well  since.  His  head 
gives  him  trouble.  He  said  today  that  it  seems  as  if  the  blood 
settles  in  his  head  when  he  lies  down.  If  he  lies  on  his  back, 
the  back  of  his  head  aches  when  he  arises.  If  on  the  side,  the 
under  side  of  the  head  aches  on  getting  up.  Tonight  he  seems 
to  be  quite  badly  off  again.  For  three  or  four  hours  he  worked 
hard,  and  overdid  himself.  That  is  his  danger.  He  had  much 


A FALSE  STAFF. 


3 


better  let  Mr.  Miller  or  me,  or  some  one  else  do  the  work,  and 
be  content  with  the  poorer  workmanship. 

“ I have  been  working  this  afternoon  on  a ‘ tampa,’  or  frame, 
that  is  above  the  hammock  of  the  tepoia,  for  shading  it  The 
carpenter  charged  such  an  outrageous  price  for  making  tepoias 
that  we  bought  a long  board,  the  poles,  'and  hammocks,  and  are 
fixing  them  ourselves. 

“All  the  Bibles  that  we  can  spare  (we  keep  three  to  give  in 
Bihe),  all  but  four  Testaments,  and  about  twenty  Gospel  portions 
have  been  given  away.  Six  of  the  Bibles  were  sold  at  five  hun- 
dred reis  (fifty  cents)  each,  and  one  Testament  for  three 
hundred  reis  (thirty  cents). 

“ I have  wondered  how  far  they  understood  about  these 
books.  They  assent  to  all  that  is  said  about  them  (which  is 
necessarily  very  little).  All  desired  the  Bibles,  partly  because 
the  translation  is  the  work  of  a priest,  but  chiefly  on  another 
account.  The  livrinhos  (little  books)  they  say  are  for  children. 
The  grown  men  feel  that  only  the  large  ones  befit  them.  There 
has  been  only  one  woman  for  a book,  although  some  may  have 
gotten  them  indirectly,  as  I know  happened  in  one  case.” 

A FALSE  START TAKEN  FOR  AMERICAN  COLONISTS LEARNING 

AMBUNDA. 

Early  in  February  porters  were  secured  who  had  come  down 
from  Bihe  with  loads  for  traders  at  Catumbella,  and  a start  from 
Benguela  for  Bihe  was  made.  Mr.  Sanders  and  Mr.  Miller 
went  on  to  Catumbella,  leaving  Mr.  Bagster  to  close  up  business. 
On  reaching  Catumbella  they  found  that  these  porters  had  been 
cheated  out  of  their  wages  by  the  traders,  and  had  been  advised 
to  repay  themselves  by  robbing  the  Americans  when  they  had 
got  them  well  into  the  mountains.  The  guide  Barros  was  so 
thoroughly  convinced  that  mischief  was  brewing  that  he  would 
not  assume  the  responsibility  of  starting.  The  only  two  men  to 
be  trusted  in  Catumbella  said,  “ Don’t  go  ! Wait.  It  is  not  safe  ; 
you  certainly  will  be  murdered.”  A friendly  merchant  had 


32 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA . 


also  just  received  letters  from  Bihe  saying  that  the  king  had 
despatched  a company  of  porters  to  the  coast  in  charge  of  his 
nephew  to  conduct  the  missionaries  to  his  capital.  In  view  of 
these  things,  they  all  returned  to  Benguela,  where  Mr.  Bagster 
had  a severe  attack  of  fever. 

“ On  Sunday  night,”  says  Mr.  Sanders,  “ after  talking  about 
Mr.  Bagster’s  needs,  the  physician  who  was  attending  him 
entered  into  quite  a discussion  with  me  of  a semi-religious 
character.  The  chief  point  was  to  put  Calvin,  Luther,  Renan, 
and  others,  into  the  same  category;  the  bond  of  union  being 
excommunication  by  the  pope,  and  the  attempt  to  found  a new 
religion. 

“ Then  he  took  another  turn  and  asked  when  the  colonists 
would  follow  us.  I remarked  that  we  are  missionaries  and  not 
colonists.  He  acknowledged  us  as  such,  but  said  that  England 
always  sends  missionaries  for  the  one  purpose  of  giving  peaceful 
entrance  to  the  colonists  who  are  to  be  sent  to  that  place.  This 
he  adhered  to  as  an  undeniable  fact.  Then,  laying  down  as 
another  certainty  that  England  and  America  are  really,  and  for 
all  practical  purposes  the  same,  he  deduced  the  conclusion  that 
colonists  are  to  follow  us,  and  from  this  belief  he  would  not 
budge. 

“ Mr.  Miller  and  I are  trying  to  get  hold  of  a little  Ambunda 
every  day.  Mr.  Bagster’s  sickness  has  prevented  him  from 
trying  to  do  much  as  yet.  It  is  difficult  to  get  what  we  want 
from  our  guide.  He  is  not  a born  teacher,  and  soon  tires  if 
the  lesson  lasts  long.  Today  we  have  made  some  attempts  to 
make  some  of  the  gentio  understand  a few  words,  but  succeeded 
mostly  in  amusing  them,  or  soliciting  blank  looks.  However, 
remembering:  that  the  same  results  attended  the  first  efforts  at 
Portuguese,  we  laugh  too  and  try  again.” 

Of  their  progress  in  learning  the  language  Mr.  Miller  writes 
hopefully,  February  15,  1881  : 


LEARNING  AM  BUND  A. 


33 


“ I feel  quite  justified  in  not  writing  to  you  before  now  since 
Mr.  Bagster  and  Mr.  Sanders  have  written  you  such  voluminous 
accounts  of  the  expedition,  place,  and  people.  No  doubt  you 
will  be  surprised  to  hear  that  we  are  not  in  Bihe.  So  are  we. 
We  have  had  no  opportunity  yet  to  go.  The  porters  of  the 
king  of  Bihe  have  been  ordered,  and  are  said  to  be  on  the  road, 
and  will  probably  arrive  here  on  the  last  of  the  month  or  first  of 
March.  Our  stay  here  has  indeed  been  longer  than  we  expected 
or  desired.  Still  we  have  got  on  very  well,  having  a good  house 
to  shelter  us,  and  the  climate  apparently  moderate,  having  a 
strong  sea-breeze  daily,  arising  in  the  morning  about  ten  o’clock, 
and  lasting  till  night,  making  one  fancy  himself  to  be  in  some 
pleasant  temperate  region  in  a summer  day.  Although  Benguela 
is  favored  with  this  apparently  healthy  atmosphere,  it  is  justly 
considered  unhealthy.  The  Portuguese  who  have  been  resi- 
dents of  the  town  for  years  are  no  more  exempted  from  fever 
than  new  comers.  Mr.  Sanders  and  I have  been  right  well. 
Mr.  Bagster  had  two  attacks  of  fever,  but  is  well  again.  We  are 
spending  our  time  in  acquiring  Portuguese  and  the  language  of 
Bihe,  called  Ambunda.  I have  learned  a good  deal  of  Portu- 
guese, enough  to  ask  questions  and  to  understand  the  answers, 
which  is  a great  help  to  me  in  acquiring  Ambunda. 

“ Our  guide  is  a native  of  Bihe,  who  has  acquired  the  Portu- 
guese language  and  appears  to  be  a very  intelligent  man.  Mr. 
Sanders  and  I take  lessons  under  him  in  Ambunda,  and,  by 
this  means,  we  have  learned  many  words  of  Bihe,  or  Ambunda, 
already.  We  will  be  very  glad  indeed  when  the  day  comes  for 
us  to  go  up  to  that  lovely  and  healthy  land.  For  we  are  told 
constantly  that  it  is  a most  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  abound- 
ing in  the  riches  of  a tropical  region,  besides  having  ice  from 
two  to  three  inches  thick.  The  truth  of  this  we  shall  test  when 
we  get  there.  There  we  hope,  in  the  name  of  God,  to  unfurl 
the  Christian  banner  and  work  bravely  for  our  Lord.  We  are 
by  no  means  cast  down,  since  God  is  our  help.  We  shall  do  all 
the  good  we  can  and  leave  results  in  the  hands  of  God.  It  is 
for  us  to  obey  and  He  will,  provide.  Therefore  we  go  gladly  to 


34 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFR/CA. 


do  our  Master’s  will.  Remember  my  kindest  regards  to  all  the 
officers  of  the  Board.” 

OFF  FOR  BIHE THE  ROUTE. 

At  last  on  the  9th  of  March,  1881,  in  cheerful  spirits,  our 
friends  left  Benguela  for  good. 

“First,”  writes  Mr.  Bagster,  “a  health  report:  at  present, 
good.  Brother  Sanders  boasts  of  feeling  extra  fine ; he  can 
pull  down  the  scale  at  the  same  half-pound  that  I can  ; that  is 
one  hundred  and  forty-two  pounds.  The  meaning  of  this  is,  he 
has  gained  some  ten  pounds  in  Africa.  I have  lost  some  thir- 
teen pounds.  Brother  Miller  is  well,  growing  in  grace  and 
knowledge.  As  to  self,  I am  on  the  third  day  out  of  bed,  and 
this  is  well.  I am  taken  with  a continual  lazy  fit.  I take  a few 
days’  rest  and  a few  days’  work.  Really  I do  not  think  I have 
been  free  from  fever  since  the  middle  of  December.  But  there 
is  one  comfort  even  in  the  midst  of  discomfort  — the  Lord 
reigneth.  I find  myself  altogether  too  much  of  a grumbler  and 
am  ashamed  to  own  it ; but  so  it  is.  Yet  truly  I do  rejoice,  and 
joy  in  the  God  of  my  salvation. 

“ Second,  I will  attempt  to  give  you  a brief  outline  of  the 
route  to  Bihe'  as  gathered  from  various  sources  and  as  corrected 
by  Barros.  Benguela  to  Catumbella  on  the  coast  line ; turn 
inland  to  Kassange , one  and  one-third  days  from  Catumbella, 
passing  the  river  Catumbella  three  times,  and  over  the  hills  to 
Kibula . Here  the  slight  change  comes  in  the  Ambunda  lan- 
guage, and  from  here  the  same  language  prevails  to  Bihe. 
Beyond  Bihe  other  languages  prevail.  To  Usoki  ; fine  country, 
cross  several  streams,  to  Kibanda;  to  Bonga,  a small  town, 
unimportant ; to  Bailunda,  about  the  elevation  of  Bihe  and  said 
to  be  equally  as  important  as  Bihe,  in  fact  larger  and  more  pop- 
ulous, and  the  king  of  Bailunda  seems  to  be  quite  independent 
of  the  king  of  Bihe.  The  people  are  different  and  marked  by 
distinct  peculiarities.  The  Bihean  seems  the  finer  race.  There 
are  evidently  even  now  to  be  seen  strong  reasons  why,  in  the 


THE  ROUTE  TO  B/HE. 


35 


early  future,  a station,  and  a strong  one,  should  be  established 
in  Bailunda. 

“ We  pass  to  Bihe  ; to  do  so  we  have  to  cross  the  river  Ku- 
kema.  Our  first  halt  in  Bihe  will  be  Belmont,  on  the  Quito 
River,  and  from  there  to  the  king’s  town,  called  by  the  Biheans 
‘ Metrovongo,’  not  Kagnombe.  There  seems  to  be  some  doubt 
as  to  the  width  of  the  river  in  the  rainy  season,  but  they  have  no 
doubt  but  that  it  is  two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wide  in  the  dry  season,  and  deep.  There  are  plenty  of  small 
streams  from  four  feet  to  twenty  feet  wide  and  from  two  feet  to 
ten  feet  deep.  Fish  are  abundant  and  good ; small  game  also. 
I hear  a very  good  account  of  the  king  of  Bihe  when  sober,  and 
have  no  question  but  he  will  use  us  with  courtesy.  Brothers 
Sanders  and  Miller  are  doing  well  with  the  study  of  Ambunda  ; 
they  have  a collection  of  some  four  hundred  and  fifty  words, 
and  Mr.  Sanders  already  can  understand  a little  and  make  him- 
self understood  in  some  simple  matters. 

“ March  g.  Today  we  leave  Benguela  for  Bihe.  Everything 
has  gone  before  ; all  that  remains  is  to  close  one  or  two  small 
accounts  and  follow.  We  leave  Catumbella,  the  Lord  willing, 
tomorrow  morning.  Suddenly  we  found  the  chance  to  go  and 
we  at  once  availed  ourselves  of  it,  and  today,  the  second  day 
after  hearing  of  it,  we  are  on  the  road.  Brothers  Sanders  and 
Miller  well,  myself  in  poor  condition. 

“We  do  not  go  with  the  porters  of  the  king  of  Bihe,  but  with 
another  man,  and  leave  the  loads  ready  for  the  king’s  men. 
They  are  bringing  down  produce,  and  will  not  reach  here  for 
two  months.” 

They  arrived  at  Catumbella  safely. 

“ The  following  day,”  continues  Mr.  Bagster,  “ was  spent  in 
trying  to  gather  up  the  promised  porters.  This  was  extremely 
difficult.  The  head  man  of  the  Bihe  caravan  failed  us  entirely, 
and  at  one  time  we  thought  that  about  thirty-five  were  all  the 
men  we  could  get ; but  after  some  had  received  their  loads  and 


36 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


started  out  to  t'heir  friends,  we  had  a string  of  porters  come  in 
until  at  four  o’clock  of  the  second  day  we  mustered  out  some 
sixty  loads  and  a few  men  for  donkeys,  for  tepoias,  and  the 
usual  odd  lot  of  camp  followers  ; two  seculas,  guide  Barros, 
seven  donkeys  (one  left  at  Benguela  sick),  and  mission  party  ; 
in  all,  about  ninety-five  souls.  Behind  us  in  Catumbella  we  had 
been  obliged  to  leave  forty-two  loads  in  store  ; at  Mr.  Marques’s, 
in  Benguela,  sixty-three  boxes  and  bales,  large  and  small,  and 
one  hundred  and  ten  bales  and  boxes  in  the  custom-house.” 

His  next  communication  is  from 

“ Kassange  (about  forty  miles  from  Catumbella), 
15th  March,  1881. 

“Your. very  welcome  letter  of  January  nth  came  to  hand 
today  about  ten  o’clock  a.ri.  This  is  ten  p.m.  I have  much  to 
report,  but  am  quite  unable  to  do  it  for  this  mail,  and  can  only 
say  you  shall  have  all  particulars  by  next  mail.  The  porters, 
three  — one  will  not  travel  alone  — who  brought  the  mail,  are 
sleeping  at  my  feet  as  I write.  They  start  back  to  Catumbella, 
and  from  there  the  mail  is  forwarded  to  Benguela  to  catch  this 
month’s  steamer,  if  possible. 

“ I sit  under  a tree,  the  moon  shines,  and  the  mountains  stand 
round  about  in  deep  shade.  Brothers  Sanders  and  Miller  are 
in  good  health,  and  so  am  I.  I have  been  wonderfully  strength- 
ened, and  am  well,  although  the  day  1 left  Benguela  was  most  of 
it  spent  in  bed.  I cannot  give  details ; time  will  not  allow. 
I only  say  this  and  tell  you  my  intentions.  The  journey  is  far 
more  difficult  and  dangerous  than  I had  been  led  to  expect,  and 
of  the  roughest  mountain  travel.  After  this  point,  however,  it 
improves.  It  is  impossible  for  ladies  to  come  in  here,  except 
under  proper  arrangements.  These  can  be  made,  and  a journey 
that  tried  the  pluck  of  the  present  three  wquW  lose  its  terrors, 
and  become  at  least  endurable,  and  to  those  who  love  the 
wonders  and  mighty  handiwork  of  our  God,  really  enjoyable.  I 
have,  therefore,  fully  decided  to  go  into  Bihe  with  all  haste, 


THE  ROAD  ROUGH. 


37 


there  see  the  king,  establish  Brothers  Sanders  and  Miller  and 
get  them  to  work,  and  return  to  Benguela  with  Silva  Porter  and 
Galvao,  who  will  be  about  starting  for  Benguela.  There  I shal 
look  to  meet  the  doctor  and  others,  and  safely  and  comfortably 
take  them  into  Bihe.  This  is  my  intention. 

“ The  journey  from  Benguela  to  Bihe  is  a very  costly  one  and 
the  greatest  care  cannot  make  it  otherwise.  The  fact  is  that 
not  only  are  there  heavy  expenses  from  the  great  tax  that  is  put 
upon  each  sixty  pounds  for  carriage  so  long  a distance,  but  the 
multitude  of  calls  and  demands  far,  far  exceed  the  actual  wages 
paid  for  a porter.  Another  thing  of  moment  is  this : it  is  abso- 
lutely certain  that  no  party  can  go  in  unarmed,  and  that  porters 
will  not  go  unarmed.  There  is  no  reason,  with  proper  precau- 
tion, why  any  trouble  should  occur,  but  precautionary  measures 
are  necessary.  I am  sure  when  I tell  you  that  our  guide  would 
not,  all  day  yesterday  or  today,  allow  one  of  us  to  be  for  even 
a short  distance  separated  from  the  party,  that  you  will  think  he 
considered  us  in  a dangerous  country.  About  one  third  of  the 
road  is  thus  dangerous  ; the  remainder  is  considered  safe. 

“ My  present  idea  is  that  we  shall  be  kindly  received  in  Bihe, 
and  that  an  early  addition  to  our  number  would  be  well.  We 
have  much  need  of  your  constant  and  increasing  prayers. 

“Our  guide  Barros  is  the  most  awful  liar  I ever  knew;  he 
much  prefers  lying  to  speaking  the  truth,  and  cannot  be  per- 
suaded to  speak  the  truth  even  on  our  business.  So  very  bad  is 
this  that  we  are  always  correcting  his  falsehoods  and  making 
right  his  misstatements.  When  you  think  we  have  crowds  of 
the  poor,  ignorant  blacks  to  deal  with  through  him,  and  that  I, 
as  leader,  have  the  double  difficulty  of  speaking  through  an 
interpreter,  you  can  understand  that  there  is  need  of  much 
grace ; add  to  this  the  immense  cost  attached  to  moving  in  this 
country,  and  you  can  perhaps  enter  somewhat  into  my  present 
position.  But,  as  a friend  said  to  me  by  this  mail,  ‘The  Lord 
Jesus  does  not  want  everything  done  in  a minute.’ 

“ I most  strongly  advise  every  man  who  comes  here  to  bring 
a good,  medium-sized,  stout  young  mule  for  riding,  and  a good 


38 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


saddle.  The  best  build  is  the  Mexican,  or  in  default  of  this,  a 
good  cavalry  saddle,  bridle,  and  blanket,  etc.  The  ladies,  unless 
fearless  riders,  will  do  better  in  tepoias.  The  mules  can  be 
bought  in  Lisbon  and  will  be  invaluable,  and  worth  even  the 
heavy  cost  of  purchase  and  shipment.  I have  a magnificent 
riding  ox,  but  the  ox  is  only  a make-shift,  and  not  to  be  com- 
pared to  a mule.  In  case  oxen  are  decided  on,  by  all  means 
bring  saddles.  They  cannot  be  found  here. 

“Please  excuse  this;  but  the  lamp  is  very  dim,  and  I am 
weary.  We  press  toward  the  mark.  Our  hearts  long  for  these 
people,  and  we  are  walking  in  the  blessing  to  peace.  May  the 
same  Lord  keep  and  bless  you  very  abundantly.  Yours  in 
Christ’s  service.” 

A ROUGH  ROAD  THROUGH  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

Mr.  Bagster  does  not  represent  the  road  as  an  easy  one  to 
travel. 

“From  Catumbella  it  is  a long  and  rough  climb  for  four  hours, 
then  a descent,  then  another  mountain  climb,  then  down,  then 
a long  and  broken  road,  then  another  long,  steep  mountain,  and 
a fearfully  rough  descent  to  the  Catumbella  River.  This  takes 
from  eight  to  ten  hours  of  rapid  marching  over  a country  desti 
tute  of  water  : a few  miles,  perhaps  five,  by  the  side  of  the  river 
then  a turn  to  the  left  into  a romantic,  grand,  majestic  canon, 
between  the  mountains  towering  in  naked  strength,  the  gulches 
filled  with  wild  masses  of  vegetation,  the  path  strewn  with  rocks, 
the  trees  struggling  to  out-top  the  vines  and  climbing  plants  ; 
but  little  water,  every  here  and  there  a muddy  place  giving  a 
poor  supply. 

“ Constant  travel  and  the  rains  have  washed  out  the  path, 
only  at  best  eight  inches  wide,  to  a sort  of  gutter,  making  all 
walking  very  hard  for  man  or  beast.  For  any  who  can  stand 
the  tepoia  this  will  do,  and  for  the  one  who  brings  ladies,  this  is 
the  only  way.  Brother  Sanders  has  taken  to  the  tepoia  very 
kindly,  and  rather  enjoys  the  mode  of  travel.  My  dislike  in- 


ITINERARY  FROM  CATUMBELLA  TO  BAILUNDA.  39 


creases,  and  I am  very  thankful  for  the  ox  that  has  brought  me 
thus  far  on  the  way,  although  it  has  been  very  trying  at  times 
because  I have  been  compelled  to  override  him  some  half  a 
mile  an  hour,  and  this  has  somewhat  worried  him  ; but  yet  he 
has  been  better  than  a tepoia. 

“We  reached  this  place,  Bailunda,  on  Saturday  at  about  ten 
a.m.,  and  went  into  camp ; put  up  tent  amidst  a tremendous 
thunder-shower.  Since  then  we  have  had  constant  cloudy, 
showery  weather  ” 

Mr.  Sanders,  in  a letter  dated  Bailunda,  March  28  to  April  1, 
1881,  tells  the  story  of  their  progress  day  by  day: 

ITINERARY  FROM  CATUMBELLA  TO  BAILUNDA. 

“ We  reached  this  place  last  Saturday  (26th).  I take  up  my 
pen  for  the  first  letter  since  Catumbella.  It  will  be  well  to  start 
from  the  beginning  of  our  trip. 

“On  Friday,  March  n,  after  two  days  of  vexation,  we  started 
from  Catumbella  with  about  sixty  carriers,  the  donkeys  and  an 
ox.  At  the  last  minute  it  was  found  that  not  as  many  carriers 
as  were  expected  could  be  had.  Hence  the  loads  had  to  be 
re-divided,  and  such  as  could  be  left  were  stored  at  Mr  Ben- 
sande’s.  It  was  about  four  o’clock,  p.m.,  when  the  donkeys 
were  saddled,  put  in  the  charge  of  four  men,  and  started.  As 
the  men  knew  nothing  about  them,  I went  with  them,  and 
reached  the  encampment  about  eight  o’clock.  Mr.  Bagster  and 
Mr.  Miller  waited  to  secure  a few  more  men  for  a heavy  load  or 
two,  the  carriers  of  which  did  not  appear. 

“ After  much  annoying  delay,  they  set  out  at  about  eight,  and 
arrived  in  camp  about  ten.  I had  just  dropped  asleep,  but  was 
awakened,  and  crawled  from  under  the  tepoia  just  as  they 
approached.  There  was  nothing  to  do  but  to  arrange  ourselves 
as  comfortably  as  possible  for  sleep.  This  was  a simple  matter, 
as  we  had  but  a blanket  each.  The  “encampment”  was  no 
more  than  a place  where  we  all  huddled  together  in  the  open 
air.  Only  such  water  was  to  be  had  as  each  brought.  The 
place  afforded  neither  water  nor  grass  for  the  animals. 


40 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


“The  carriers  amused  themselves  a short  time  by  singing. 
One  sings  a solo,  and  the  others  take  up  the  chorus,  the  music 
of  which  seems  always  the  same.  The  singing  did  not  continue 
long.  All  became  quiet  and  apparently  asleep.  During  the 
night  we  were  kept  awake  much  by  the  cold  which  was  greater 
than  I,  at  least,  expected.  The  lack  of  shelter  made  it  felt. 

“On  the  morning  of  the  12th,  almost  before  the  eastern  sky 
was  streaked  by  a ray  of  light,  the  carriers  with  their  loads 
began  to  rush  off.  The  donkey  men  were  calling  to  have  their 
beasts  made  ready.  As  soon  as  possible  this  was  done.  About 
a quarter  of  six  we  started  During  all  this  day  the  donkeys 
caused  much  work,  because  their  drivers  were  ignorant  how  to 
manage  them.  From  the  start  the  trail  was  rough.  We  crossed 
two  or  three  steep  and  long  hills  that  tried  the  loaded  donkeys 
much.  Finally,  we  came  to  the  end  of  these  hills,  as  our  guide 
assured  us.  Then  the  loads  were  shifted  and  the  saddles  tight- 
ened. From  this  point  to  the  river,  he  said,  the  road  was  good. 
Mr.  Miller,  who  had  four  tepoia  men,  pushed  on  toward  the 
river. 

“ After  going  up  and  down  a rolling  country  until  nearly  two 
o’clock,  the  river  came  to  view.  The  greenness  along  its  banks 
was  a pleasant  contrast  to  the  dried-up  country  just  passed. 
The  carriers  were  by  the  water  side  cooking  their  food.  While 
searching  for  two  or  three  boxes  which  we  wanted,  I was  joined 
by  Mr.  Miller,  who  had  just  arrived.  Both  of  us  had  walked 
almost  the  whole  distance  on  account  of  lack  of  carriers.  This 
is  the  great  nuisance  of  tepoia  travel,  and  one  that  we  have  con- 
stantly experienced.  In  about  half  an  hour  Mr.  Bagster  arrived 
with  the  donkeys.  He  had  had  to  change  the  loads  several 
times.  The  donkey  men  had  practically  done  nothing.  The 
guide,  instead  of  helping  when  a donkey  was  down,  seated  him- 
self and  smiled  at  Mr.  Bagster,  as  he  worked  and  sweat.  Mr. 
Bagster  was  tired  out  from  having  to  assume  the  labor  of  all 
these. 

“ Contrary  to  our  expectation,  we  found  that  the  camp  was 
more  than  an  hour  farther  on.  Giving  the  animals  into  the 


ITINERA R Y : CA AIRING  OUT. 


41 


charge  of  their  drivers,  we  stopped  for  a lunch  or  breakfast 
before  going  on. 

“ This  river  is  the  same  that  flows  through  Catumbella.  Here 
it  is  not  more  than  forty  feet  wide.  Even  that  I think  is  too 
large  an  estimate.  Soon  we  went  on,  and  after  a hot  walk  of 
more  than  an  hour  arrived  at  camp.  This  consisted  of  eight  or 
ten  huts  enclosed  by  a brush  fence.  Only  a small  part  of  the 
men  could  be  with  us  here  ; the  rest  found  or  made  other 
inclosures.  'The  carriers  are  very  particular  to  shut  themselves 
in  thus  at  night.  After  reaching  camp  there  was  only  time  to 
get  dinner  and  put  the  things  away  before  sunset  and  the 
quickly  following  darkness.  A good  moon,  however,  enlight- 
ened the  first  evenings  of  our  trip.  Spreading  our  blankets,  we 
laid  ourselves  down  in  the  open  air.  Until  we  arrived  in 
Bailunda  the  tents  were  not  used.  But  after  a day  or  two  of 
traveling,  the  largest  hut  in  the  encampment  was  reserved  for 
our  use.  The  natives  build  a hut,  make  a bed  on  each  side, 
and  then,  with  a fire  in  the  middle  of  the  place  all  night,  man- 
age to  keep  comfortable.  As  between  Catumbella  and  Kissange 
there  are  no  villages  where  the  men  may  buy  provisions,  they 
would  not  stop  in  camp  over  one  day. 

“Turning  from  the  river,  the  trail  passed  up  between  the 
mountains.  It  was  a long,  steep  climb.  The  views  on  either 
side  called  for  constant  admiration.  The  grandeur  of  the 
mountains  of  rock  gave  a feeling  of  littleness  to  the  looker-on. 
Gazing  at  these  views  occupied  but  little  of  the  time.  The  path 
required  much  attention.  Three  or  four  times  it  was  necessary 
to  use  all  efforts  to  get  the  donkeys  over  some  especially  bad 
place.  Had  any  of  them  been  overloaded  it  would  have  been 
necessary  to  take  off  the  loads.  The  ox  would  follow  Mr.  Bag- 
ster’s  lead  over  these  places  without  much  trouble.  While 
ascending  the  hill  we  met  a long  line  of  people  with  loads  des- 
tined for  Catumbella.  This  was  a daily  occurrence  till  we 
reached  Kitanda.  There  were  from  one  to  three  hundred  per- 
sons in  each  company.  Many  boys,  not  more  than  eleven  or 
twelve  years  of  age,  were  always  present. 


42 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


“ When  the  head  of  the  pass  was  reached,  the  aneroid  carried 
by  Mr.  Bagster  indicated  seventeen  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  We 
hoped  the  place  for  camping  was  near.  It  really  was  four  hours 
away.  So  we  went  on  up  small  hills  and  down  until  met  by  a 
few  tepoia  men,  whom  one  of  the  seculas  had  gone  ahead  to 
obtain.  At  about  two  or  three  o’clock  an  encampment  was 
reached.  The  scenery  was  rough  and  mountainous  during  the 
latter  part  of  the  day.  Close  at  hand  the  face  of  the  country 
was  about  as  interesting  as  a mountain  pasture,  except  that  not 
a tree  of  large  size  is  to  be  seen.  The  trail,  which  consists  of 
one  or  several  paths,  is  annoying  and  troublesome  to  the  well- 
shod  traveler.  The  path  is  much  of  the  time  some  inches 
below  the  surface  and  only  about  four  inches  wide  at  the  bottom. 
A barefoot  native  travels  quite  freely  in  such  a ditch,  but  the 
wearer  of  large  walking-shoes  soon  tires.  After  walking  some 
miles  in  such  (though  there  are  not  often  long  continuous 
stretches  of  this)  we  felt  more  like  lying  down  at  camp  than 
anything  else.  The  ox  was  so  worried  by  these  paths  and  by  the 
rapid  walking  of  the  men  that  on  the  fifth,  sixth,  and  seventh 
days  he  was  utterly  discouraged. 

“The  guide,  Barros,  had  asked  us  to  go  with  ‘closed  eyes.’ 
He  would  look  after  everything.  This  advice  did  not  recom- 
mend itself  next  morning  when  one  donkey  was  found  still  sad- 
dled. However,  after  the  donkeys  were  unsaddled  by  us  at  night, 
a process  too  mysterious  for  the  Kimbundu,  he  was  responsible 
for  them  until  the  next  morning’s  start,  when  they  would  again 
need  the  saddle. 

“Traveling  but  an  hour  or  two,  we  camped  by  the  hut  of  a 
Portuguese.  Much  of  the  time  that  day  was  occupied  in  review- 
ing loads  and  giving  rations.  Any  such  thing  is  slow  and  vexa- 
tious. Three  or  four  times,  at  least,  a great  clamor  is  sure  to 
be  made.  At  last  the  matter  was  ended  ; certain  loads  were 
reserved  to  be  opened,  and  the  others  were  sent  to  the  carriers’ 
camps. 

“ March  14.  Some  time  before  this  the  messengers  with  the 
mail-bag  had  arrived.  Now,  about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon, 


ITINERARY:  NEW  ENGLAND  SCENERY. 


43 


the  letters  were  read.  The  ‘ camp  ’ was  the  shade  of  a small 
tree,  and  here  this  afternoon  and  night  were  passed.  Of  course, 
and  as  usual  since  then,  a staring  crowd  (never  exceeding  thirty) 
took  the  chance  of  getting  personal  knowledge  of  the  whites. 

“Early  next  morning,  March  15,  we  were  up  and  away. 
Good-by  was  said  to  the  Portuguese  at  whose  house  we  stayed. 
He  had  a hut  no  better  than  the  natives.  He  declared  them 
robbers,  etc  They  had  stolen  his  cloth.  Possibly  they  have 
their  opinion  of  him,  who  is  a slave  dealer. 

“ Going  on  about  three  miles  we  found  that  one  of  our  seculas 
was  sick  and  could  not  travel  that  day.  So  we  entered  an 
encampment  some  distance  off,  and  were  glad  to  lie  under  a tree 
and  rest.  The  usual  number  of  on-lookers  were  there  ; but  for 
that  there  was  no  help. 

“Making  the  usual  early  start  in  the  morning,  March  16,  we 
had  a long  and  tedious  tramp  before  encamping.  Three  times 
we  crossed  a ‘ river  ’ that  was  a good-sized  brook.  The  rivers 
here  are  insignificant.  A ditch  with  scarcely  any  water  is  called 
‘river.’  From  this  day  on,  water  was  abundant.  The  porters 
have  a predisposition  to  pass  the  good  water,  and  camp  by  that 
which  is  muddy.  Our  caravan  was  so  made  up  that  they  rushed 
off  in  the  morning  with  their  loads  and  camped  when  and  where 
they  pleased.  Thus  we  never  stop  in  a spot  chosen  by  our- 
selves. 

“ This  day,  also,  the  scenery  was  grand.  Several  mountains 
of  bare  rock  appeared,  and  their  various  aspects,  as  we  were  in 
different  positions,  kept  our  eyes  turning  toward  them.  At  last, 
while  the  first  were  yet  in  view,  we  encamped  on  a hillside  facing 
the  last  one.  At  this  camp  carriers  for  the  tepoias  were  arranged. 
They  had  been  lacking  thus  far.  The  bad  walking  and  heat 
made  the  journey  very  trying. 

“Early  on  Thursday,  March  17,  we  were  up  and  off.  The 
country  this  day  exhibited  no  specially  marked  feature.  No- 
where does  it  seem  tropical ; and  such  scenery  would  excite  no 
surprise  in  the  latitude  of  Boston.  Here  all  the  vegetation 
appears  much  like  that  of  New  England. 


44 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


“ I suppose  the  season  of  the  year  (autumn)  accounts  for  the 
absence  of  any  great  display  of  flowers.  In  the  four  or  five 
days  before  reaching  Bailunda  there  were  many  flowers,  yet  in 
no  such  abundance  as  at  home  in  the  spring. 

“ The  lack  of  good-sized  trees  is  due,  I suppose,  to  the  con- 
stantly passing  caravans,  which  cut  them  down  before  they  are 
of  any  size.  In  most  places  they  are  hardly  more  than  bushes. 
Perhaps  if  we  had  gone  some  distance  to  the  right  or  left  large 
trees  would  have  been  found.  This  day,  after  reaching  camp, 
the  present  for  the  soba  of  Kihula  was  made  ready  and  sent. 
The  two  seculas  were  entrusted  with  its  delivery.  A petty  chief, 
also,  had  to  be  presented  with  eight  yards  of  cloth.  This  country, 
as  well  as  Kassange,  just  passed,  is,  the  guide  said,  infested  with 
robbers.  The  Portuguese  say  that  a white  man  may  go  with 
his  four  tepoia  carriers  from  Bihe  to  Benguela  without  the 
slightest  hindrance.  Of  course  these  men  do  not  travel  un- 
armed. No  one,  black  or  white,  starts  without  his  rifle,  if  he 
has  one. 

“ Here,  as  usual,  a number  of  women  and  children  are  at 
hand  with  corn  and  beer  for  sale.  The  products  offered  for  sale 
are  few  in  number.  First  and  chief,  their  beer  should  be  men- 
tioned. It  is  made  by  boiling  corn  meal  and  putting  into  this, 
when  cold,  water  prepared  with  the  juice  of  a root  found  in 
abundance.  Next  day  the  beer  is  ready.  Corn  meal  and  corn 
on  the  ear  are  the  next  articles  for  sale  that  deserve  mention. 
These  two  forms  of  corn  constitute  the  staple  food  of  these 
people  How  they  can  eat  boiled  corn  meal  day  after  day  is  a 
wonder  to  us.  It  is  no  marvel  that  salt  has  great  value  here. 
Without  it,  this  diet  must  be  insufferable.  As  a change  from 
pudding,  they  roast  corn  on  the  ear,  and  may  be  seen  eating  it 
at  any  hour.  Since  reaching  Kibanda  sweet  potatoes  have  been 
quite  abundant,  but  the  carriers  do  not  seem  to  use  them  much. 
Beans,  also,  in  these  last  days,  have  been  offered  at  times.  An 
inferior  kind  of  squash,  grown  in  the  corn-fields,  is  quite  abun- 
dant. Very  little  else  is  offered  for  sale.  Generally  our  efforts 
to  get  a chicken  or  two  were  unavailing.  Eggs  also  are  hard  to 
obtain. 


ITINERARY;  DAILY  ROUTINE. 


45 


“ Starting  from  camp,  this  first  one  in  Kibula,  we  had  the 
usual  routine,  which  I will  describe  in  connection  with  this  day, 
Friday,  March  18th.  Before  the  first  streak  of  light,  Mr.  Bag- 
ster  would  be  up  and'  begin  warming  breakfast.  At  the  outset, 
when  Mr.  Miller  and  I were  in  favor  of  making  shift  with  a little 
bite  in  the  mornings  and  whenever  very  tired,  Mr.  Bagster 
declared  we  must  always  take  care  to  have  our  food  regularly 
and  enough  of  it,  or  none  of  us  would  keep  health  and  strength 
to  reach  Bihe.  As  we  brought  no  servant  to  do  the  cooking 
Tthey  could  only  have  had  women  to  cook]  and  as  Mr.  Miller  or 
I would  soon  reduce  the  party  to  semi-starvation  were  we  to  do 
it,  the  actual  cooking  has  mostly  fallen  to  Mr.  Bagster,  while 
Mr.  Miller  and  I are  assistants. 

“Just  as  we  finish  breakfast,  it  grows  light.  The  carriers  now 
clamor  for  the  loads ; so  those  opened  for  our  use  (from  four  to 
six)  are  hastily  arranged  and  delivered  to  their  carriers,  who 
bind  them  and  follow  those  already  gone.  After  getting  rid  of 
these  loads  the  donkeys  are  saddled  and  are  then  ready  for  the 
drivers.  Mr.  Bagster  then  saddles  his  ox,  the  others  arrange 
their  tepoias,  and  away  we  all  go.  Soon  we  get  apart,  it  may 
be  not  to  see  each  other  until  at  the  encampment. 

“ The  journey  on  this  day  was  between  mountains,  up  hill 
and  down.  The  fields  of  corn  were  more  numerous  than  before. 
The  corn  is  planted  in  rows  and  hilled  as  in  America.  Beans 
and  squashes,  sometimes  castor-oil  beans,  also  mandioca,  are 
grown  among  the  corn-stalks.  It  is  noticeable  that  the  fields 
are  scarcely  ever  protected  either  from  beasts  or  travelers. 
Of  the  former  there  seem  to  be  none.  Two  wild  animals 
are  the  sum  of  those  as  yet  seen  by  any  of  us.  Mr.  Bagster 
saw  something  of  about  the  size  of  a small  pig,  but  it  immedi- 
ately disappeared.  Mr.  Miller  also  saw  a wild  goat.  I never 
saw  a place  where  there  seemed  such  an  utter  absence  of 
animals,  domestic  or  wild.  In  Kassange  they  have  many  cattle, 
but  beyond  that  there  are  none  until  Bailunda  is  reached. 
Though  the  path  passes  frequently  through  corn-fields,  I saw  no 
one  take  an  ear.  Nor  did  any  signs  of  robbery  appear.  I do 


4 6 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


not  know  what  the  power  is  that  restrains  them  from  petty  theft 
when  there  is  such  opportunity. 

“Having  crossed  the  river  Bailombo  (not  more  than  twenty 
yards  at  the  ford)  and  gone  on  a mile,  my  carriers  showed  an 
encampment  where  we  stopped.  After  waiting  an  hour  for  the 
others  to  arrive,  I was  told  that  they  had  encamped  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river.  Sending  a note  back,  I found  that  my 
men  had  taken  me  beyond  the  camp  determined  upon.  With  the 
messenger,  Mr.  Bagster  sent  some  food  and  blankets.  Disliking 
two  more  rides  across  the  river  on  a man’s  shoulders,  I did  not 
go  back,  but  camped  alone,  and  quite  early  on  Saturday  Messrs. 
Bagster  and  Miller  came  up. 

“ Mr.  Bagster  had  not  been  well  during  the  night.  The  rem- 
nants of  Benguela  fever  were  at  work.  After  traveling  till  ten 
we  came  to  the  house  of  a Mr.  Coimbra.  His  elder  brother  we 
have  since  met  in  Bailunda.  Both  of  these  men  were  in  Bihe. 
‘ Mucanos  ’ with  the  natives,  as  I understand,  were  the  cause  of 
this  man’s  coming  to  Kibula.  Pushing  on  toward  camp,  instead 
of  stopping  to  eat  with  him,  we  arrived  in  an  hour  or  two  in 
camp. 

“Here  we  stopped  until  Monday,  March  21st.  Sunday  was, 
however,  anything  but  such  as  could  be  wished.  On  Saturday 
evening  Mr.  Bagster  was  sick  with  fever.  Sunday  morning  he 
felt  quite  well,  and  we  hoped  for  a quiet  day.  Scarcely  was 
breakfast  over  before  the  men  began  to  clamor  for  rations,  say- 
ing that  they  had  calculated  to  receive  them  at  the  next  place, 
but  this  delay  made  it  necessary  to  have  the  cloth  here.  The 
upshot  was  that  it  had  to  be  given.  This  took  a good  while. 
The  work  in  the  sun  was  scarcely  over  when  Mr.  Coimbra  came 
to  visit  us  and  sat  till  about  three  o’clock.  He  made  a present 
of  two  hens  and  some  potatoes,  which  were  acceptable.  We 
had  given  him  a Portuguese  New  Testament.  Before  he  left, 
Mr.  Bagster’s  fever  returned,  much  worse  than  on  the  preceding 
da^  ; so  much  so  that  I feared  we  should  be  unable  to  go  on 
Monday.  That  night  the  men  howled  and  sang  to  their  own 
delight  and  our  annoyance.  This  camp  was  near  Mt.  Longa. 


ITINERARY:  RAYING  CARRIERS. 


47 


Setting  out  early  on  Monday,  we  began  soon  to  ascend  the 
mountains.  This  tedious  process  continued  for  some  hours 
until  a height  was  reached  on  which  we  have  since  kept.  The 
air  became  very  perceptibly  different,  and  more  refreshing. 
Some  of  the  grasses  were  of  great  beauty.  The  bushes  con- 
tinued to  show  that  the  Cometivas  (caravans)  had  made  camps 
all  along  the  route. 

“ Mr.  Bagster  was  so  unwell  that  he  gave  the  tepoia  men  some 
work.  The  heat  and  labor  of  riding  the  ox  were  more  than  he 
could  stand.  After  an  unusually  hard  march  we  came  to  camp. 
Mr.  Bagster  was  much  better  then,  and  has  been  better  ever 
since.  (I  am  writing  this  on  the  30th.)  All  attempts  on  this 
and  other  days  to  see  tracks  of  game  proved  fruitless.  Our 
camp  this  night  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Mt.  Usoke. 

“Next  day,  March  22,  we  reached  camp  at  about  half-past 
ten.  Here  the  present  for  the  king  of  Kibanda  was  entrusted 
to  the  seculas.  They  disappeared,  and  were  not  seen  till  next 
day.  They  reported  that  he  was  much  obliged  for  that  received, 
but  wished  aguardente  also.  Our  guide  sent  the  messenger  off 
with  the  reply  that  we  could  not  and  would  not  give  any. 

“ On  Wednesday,  March  23,  camp  was  reached  early,  between 
twelve  and  one.  Situated  on  a steep  hill-side,  even  the  beds 
(native  make)  had  an  uncomfortable  slope.  Above,  on  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  was  a village  whose  people  favored  us  with 
their  presence  and  wares.  These  were,  as  usual,  of  very  small 
variety.  Before  leaving  Benguela  our  guide  pictured  all  these 
places  as  overflowing  with  fowls,  pigs,  goats,  fruit,  etc.  It  was 
only  by  great  pains  that  any  animal,  or  fowl,  or  egg  could  be 
procured.  More  than  half  of  the  time  they  could  not  be  had. 

“ Here  notice  was  given  that  fourteen  carriers  must  be  paid 
off.  Barros  told  them  to  go  home,  and  return  for  pay  early 
in  the  morning.  One  of  the  disadvantages  of  picking  up  car- 
riers in  Catumbella  is  that  at  each  country  some  come  for  pay. 
They  have  reached  home,  and  will  go  no  further.  Then  comes 
the  bother  of  getting  new  men.  This  is  not  always  easily  done. 
On  Thursday  morning  the  carriers  came  for  pay.  Barros  had 


48 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


asked  a friend  of  his,  a man  of  influence,  to  be  present  at  the 
payment,  to  see  that  all  had  fair  play.  This  man  was  asked 
what  should  be  paid.  Twelve  yards,  he  said,  was  fair  and  right. 
This,  though  far  beyond  the  scale  of  prices  given  by  Barros  in 
Benguela,  Mr.  Bagster  prepared  to  pay.  The  first  man  refused 
twelve  yards.  Sixteen,  or  nothing,  would  be  taken.  Then  com- 
menced a general  wrangling  that  continued  for  hours.  Barros  , 
said  the  Bailundas  were  inciting  the  fourteen  to  stick  to  their 
claim.  The  friend  of  Barros  sat  on  the  fence,  desiring  on  the 
one  hand  to  be  with  us,  and  yet  to  avoid  giving  the  carriers 
offense.  The  Bailundas  were  anxious  and  active  in  the  affair, 
because  the  pay  of  these  would  gauge  their  own.  About  two 
o’clock  a compromise  was  made  for  fourteen  yards.  After  these 
were  dispatched,  carriers  were  arranged  in  their  places.  Then 
an  understanding  was  reached  with  the  Bailundas  as  to  their 
pay. 

“ At  this  camp  messengers  came  from  Mr.  Galvao.  He  heard 
that  we  were  in  Kibanda  and  sent  to  know  the  certainty.  He 
had  just  reached  Bailunda  on  his  way  to  the  coast.  With  him 
was  Joao  Baptiste.  By  the  messengers  we  sent  a letter  asking 
him  to  do  nothing  about  our  carriers,  requested  of  the  king  of 
Bihe,  until  he  should  meet  us.  For  he  had  sent  word  that  he 
brought  a letter  from  the  king  of  Bihe,  asking  the  king  of 
Bailunda  to  furnish  them. 

“Next  morning,  March  24,  an  early  start  was  made.  About 
nine  o’clock  the  caravan  divided.  The  river  Koovoo  had  to  be 
crossed.  The  nearer  route  was  said  to  be  impassable  by  the 
donkeys  and  ox.  So  most  of  the  porters  took  the  nearer  course, 
while  we,  with  the  animals,  turned  off  to  a better  crossing. 
Reaching  the  “ ford,”  the  people  crossed  in  a leaky  bark  canoe. 
The  ferryman  stood  in  the  stern  and  skillfully  managed  the 
nondescript.  The  passengers  would  crouch  at  the  other  end, 
bending  low  to  avoid  tipping  over  the  frail  bark. 

“ As  the  river  was  not  more  than  eighty  feet  wide,  yet  with 
considerable  current,  and  deep,  some  ropes  were  spliced,  and 
one  end  taken  across.  To  the  other  end  were  fastened  two  or 


A MUCANO. 


49 


three  donkeys.  They  were  pushed  over  the  bank  into  the  river, 
and  with  a little  guidance  swam  across.  The  same  was  done 
with  the  ox.  It  was  afternoon  when  all  were  across.  Then 
commenced  a march  lasting  until  four  o’clock.  Neither  our 
guide  nor  the  secula  with  us  knew  the  way.  The  men  at  last 
were  tired  out,  and  we  stopped,  constructing  a camp,  as  none 
could  be  found.  We  could  not  help  noticing  how  much  less 
fertile  the  land  appeared  here  than  before. 

“ Next  morning^early  we  set  out,  and  about  eight  fell  in  with 
the  other  carriers.  Traveling  till  half-past  ten,  the  camp  was 
reached.  The  seculas  thought  we  should  camp  nearer  the  resi- 
dence of  the  king,  but  we  did  not  care  to  do  so.  The  preceding 
day  it  had  rained,  and  scarcely  had  camp  been  reached  before  a 
thunder-storm  came  on.  These  were  the  first  showers  on  the 
journey. 

“ On  Friday,  March  25th,  the  only  thing  that  seemed  feasible 
was  to  take  the  wetting,  as  most  of  our  things  were  not  with  us. 
On  Saturday,  March  26th,  putting  on  our  rubber  clothes,  we 
raised  the  large  tent,  and  soon  were  in  good  shelter.  The  tent 
had  not  been  used  before. 

“ I must  go  back  to  the  first  thing  that  happened  in  this  camp. 
Two  men  were  carrying  Mr.  Miller’s  tepoia  as  camp  was  reached 
and  carried  him  right  in.  A man  with  his  load  was  standing 
near  where  they  came  in.  The  front  tepoia  carrier  warned  him 
of  their  approach,  but  yet  his  load  was  hit  by  the  tepoia,  fell 
from  his  shoulders  and,  being  a box  with  iron  bands,  cut  a slight 
gash  on  his  forearm.  It  was  a mere  scratch,  from  one  to  two 
inches  in  length.  He  immediately  held  up  the  arm  for  all  to 
see.  A ‘ mucano  ’ was  soon  on  foot.  The  two  carriers  paid  the 
twelve  yards  each  had  earned,  and  a gun,  merely  as  preliminary 
hush-money.  Next  day  the  trial  was  held.  A large  fine  was 
imposed,  but  afterwards  reduced  to  sixty  yards  of  cloth.  This 
one  of  the  seculas  paid.  The  young  man  at  the  front  of  the 
tepoia  remains  slave  of  the  secula,  but  may  be  ransomed  by 
payment  of  two  slaves.  He  is  yet  with  us,  as  the  secula  has 
not  left  our  camp.  The  cut  that  caused  all  this  fuss  is  so  slight 


50 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


that,  further  than  to  be  covered  with  a little  sticking-plaster,  it 
deserves  no  thought. 

“ From  camp  on  Saturday  we  sent  word  to  the  king  of  our 
arrival.  Usually  the  whites  send  aguardente  at  the  same  time. 
The  seculas  thought  we  must.  We  did  not,  substituting  a few 
handkerchiefs.  As  we  neither  could  nor  would  give  the  liquor, 
the  king  made  no  fuss.  The  rain  fell  more  or  less  during  the 
afternoon  and  night.  The  tent  kept  us  all  right. 

“ On  Sunday  morning  the  weather  cleared.  The  carriers 
early  began  demands  for  pay.  Only  a little  time  passed  before 
Mr.  Galvao  and  Mr.  Joao  Baptiste  visited  us.  They  had  sent 
to  have  us  call,  but  we  replied  that  on  Sunday  we  should  not 
call.  Further,  that  the  king  had  bidden  us  move  our  camp 
nearer  to  his  place  on  that  day,  but  we  had  deferred  the  removal 
on  the  same  ground.  Not  having  the  same  feeling  about  visiting 
on  Sunday,  they  came  to  us.  Mr.  Silva  Porto  does  not  pull 
with  these  men.  They  tried  to  enlist  the  king  of  Bailunda  in 
their  behalf  against  Bihe.  Mr.  Porto,  on  the  other  hand,  urged 
the  king' to  let  them  settle  their  own  difficulty. 

“On  Monday  we  changed  our  camp,  and  are  now  about  two 
miles  from  the  hill  of  the  king.  Wednesday  and  Thursday  have 
been  passed  in  camp,  ostensibly  writing  to  America,  but  the 
visits  and  disturbances  make  it  slow  work.  Now  we  would  like 
to  start  for  Bihe,  but  the  cloth  from  Benguela  has  not  arrived. 
Until  it  comes  we  must  stay  here,  though  it  be  another  week  or 
fortnight.  The  king  has  sent  two  goats  and  some  corn  meal  : 
says  we  must  not  be  compelled  to  buy  food  while  stopping  with 
him.” 

THE  KING  OF  BAILUNDA. 

On  Monday,  March  28,  the  first  call  was  made  on  the  king  of 
Bailunda.  Mr.  Bagster  thus  describes  the  visit : 

“Yesterday  we  went  to  see  the  king,  and  when  there  we 
entered  into  a very  new  experience  to  me,  which,  though  curi- 
ous, was  not  pleasant  After  a busy  morning,  we  reached  the 


A VISIT  TO  THE  KING  OF  BA/LUNDA. 


51 


king’s  village  by  a brisk  walk  of  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 
When  we  approached  the  town  we  ascended  a slope  and  came 
suddenly  to  the  foot  of  a small  round  hill  on  which  the  houses 
are  built,  and  at  the  top  of  which  is  the  king’s  compound. 
After  a steep  climb,  and  passing  through  the  crooked  doors  and 
passages,  we  found  ourselves  by  the  king’s  prison,  and  in  the 
yard  next  to  the  king’s  house.  There,  under  the  shade  of  some 
of  the  largest  trees  we  have  come  across,  we  sat  down  upon 
our  own  chairs  and  1 vaited.  In  the  course  of  half  an  hour  some 
one  hundred  men  and  boys  had  collected  to  see  the  sight,  and 
then  came  an  immense  bowl  of  native  corn  beer  which  was 
passed  round.  Another  waiting  time  followed  ; then  two  large 
bowls  of  beer ; then  the  ministers  came  in  and  sat  upon  a 
natural  terrace  of  rocks  at  our  right ; after  them  the  king,  when 
all  clapped  their  hands  twice.  He  was  introduced  to  us,  we 
rose  and  shook  hands,  he  seated  himself  upon  my  right,  and 
again  the  hands  were  clapped  and  the  word  ‘ Bokwata,’  ran 
round  the  circle.  This  took  Brother  Sanders  and  myself  by 
surprise  and  we  failed  to  clap;  thereupon  the  king  remarked 
that  the  white  men  did  not  clap,  for  they  despised  the  black 
man.  We  corrected  this  idea,  and  the  king,  jumping  up,  went 
off  by  another  door,  but  soon  came  back,  and  clap,  clap,  and 
‘ Bokwata,’  went  round  the  circle.  The  king  called  for  our 
Bailunda  secula,  who  came  forward  and,  squatting  in  the  midst, 
he  gave  an  account  of  our  journey,  etc.  The  king  asked  our 
guide  some  questions,  after  which  our  present  to  the  king  was 
brought  in  — four  pieces  of  large  handkerchiefs  (twelve  in  a 
piece),  two  fancy  shirts  for  himself,  and  six  cheap  cotton  shirts, 
two  strong  clasp  knives,  one  copper  tea-kettle,  one  concertina, 
two  pairs  of  cheap  bracelets.  To  this  we  have  to  add,  when 
our  cloth  comes,  one  hundred  and  twenty  or  one  hundred  and 
thirty  yards  of  cotton  cloth  and  prints.  Our  present  satisfied 
the  king  very  well ; he  only  asked  in  addition  for  some  of  the 
white  man’s  food,  another  kettle,  and  a chair.  I replied  that  I 
was  soon  going  to  Benguela  and  would  bring  him  a handsome 
blanket  and  chair.  We  were  advised  that  this  man  was  well 


52 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


worth  winning  as  a friend,  and  that  he  was  favorable  to  the 
whites.  Having  sent  for  a fowl  and  given  it  us,  the  king  asked 
some  more  questions,  and  I had  the  question  asked  him  if  we 
could  stay,  or  return  and  settle  in  his  country  if  we  wished  to, 
trying  to  make  him  understand  what  our  work  is  and  what  we 
intend  doing.  He  replied  that  he  was  an  old  man,  that  we 
might  come  and  live  in  his  country  for  a thousand  years  if  we 
liked,  but  that  when  he  died  he  could  not  say  any  more.  Indeed, 
he  appeared  pleased  with  the  idea,  and,  taken  altogether,  was 
certainly  pleased  with  us.  I told  him  I hoped  that  all  our  rela- 
tions would  be  pleasant  and  long ; and  at  this  point  the  irrepres- 
sible courtiers  began  a discussion  on  the  subject  of  making  war 
on  the  king  of  Bih^,  to  which  the  day  previous  the  king  had 
been  persuaded  by  Joas  Baptiste,  who  says  that  the  king  of  Bih£ 
has  robbed  him  of  six  thousand  pounds’  weight  of  ivory,  and  he 
is  in  hot  haste  to  make  war  on  the  king.  When  we  wearied  of 
the  native  eloquence,  we  got  excused,  and  left. 

“ The  view  from  the  king’s  place  is  very  beautiful,  and  indeed 
any  elevated  spot  near  here  gives  a fine  view.  The  leaning  of 
the  whole  council  was  toward  making  war  ; but  I do  not  believe 
that  the  king,  whose  wife  is  a daughter  of  the  king  of  Bih^,  has 
any  intention  of  making  war.  The  appearance  of  the  king  is  of 
a savage  of  kindly  disposition,  and  far  above  the  average  black 
in  common  sense ; a strongly-built  man,  gray,  and  showing  some 
signs  of  age,  but  certainly  what  would  be  called  a good  life  in 
an  insurance  office. 

“ We  have  seen  and  received  much  information  from  Signor 
Silva  Porto,  who  seems  to  be  a different  man  from  the  others 
whom  we  have  met.  He  has  given  us  letters  to  Bihe,  and  has 
placed  one  of  his  houses  at  our  disposal.  Signor  Galvao  has 
also  given  us  the  best  help  and  the  unasked  attention  of  four 
letters  to  Bihe,  one  to  the  soba  (king)  to  tell  him  not  to 
allow  us  to  be  bothered,  or  to  allow  any  ‘ question,’  mucano, 
to  be  put  on  us.” 


RETURNS  TO  BENGUELA . 


53 


MR.  BAGSTER  RETURNS  TO  BENGUELA. 

Before  proceeding  to  Bihe'  it  was  judged  expedient  for 
Mr.  Bagster  to  return  to  Benguela,  and  hasten  forward  the 
goods  left  there.  Our  friends  had  not  gone  far  from  Catum- 
bella,  on  their  way  up,  before  they  found  that  the  journey  was 
costing,  in  presents  to  sobas  and  in  pay  of  cloth  to  the  porters, 
so  much  more  than  the  guide  Barros  had  represented  as  to 
cause  serious  embarrassment.  Orders  were  sent  back  to  have 
more  cloth  forwarded.  But  one  of  the  merchants  who  had  been 
engaged  to  attend  to  these  matters  died  suddenly,  and  another 
was  obliged  for  special  reasons  to  confine  his  attention  to  his 
own  affairs.  The  quickest  and  surest  way  of  going  through  to 
Bihe  seemed  to  be  for  Mr.  Sanders  and  Mr.  Miller  to  remain  in 
Bailunda,  while  Mr.  Bagster  went  down  again  to  Benguela  and 
himself  brought  on  the  articles  which  had  been  left  behind. 

“We  have  seen  the  King  Kwikwi,  and  have  decided  that  the 
only  way  to  do  is  to  return  to  Benguela.  Brothers  Sanders  and 
Miller  go  into  a more  permanent  camp,  rebuilding  the  fence, 
enlarging  the  huts,  removing  the  tent,  etc.,  etc.  I left  them  busy, 
and  with  fifteen  carriers  and  six  tepoia  men  and  secula,  with  a 
few  hangers  on,  I started  on  12th  of  April  for  the  coast.  [This 
letter  is  dated  Benguela,  May  6,  1881.]  Twelve  days  is  about 
the  shortest  time  of  a caravan  between  Bailunda  and  Catum- 
bella. 

“ My  road  down  was  unmarked  by  any  important  incident 
until  the  last  few  days.  My  attention  was  given  to  several 
points,  and  much  truer  ideas  of  the  country  were  obtained.  I 
traveled  in  the  rainy  season,  and  we  had  some  storms  and  wet 
nights.  I closely  watched  the  road  to  see  if  a lady  could,  with 
any  degree  of  comfort,  be  brought  over  it.  I think  it  possible, 
with  good  tepoia  men  and  a very  positive  leader,  who  shall 
compel  some  degree  of  obedience  from  the  porters  as  to  distance 
marched,  etc.,  to  take  in  ladies.  Without  these  precautions  it 
would  be  a very  rough  experience  for  any  woman. 


54 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


“Another  point  of  interest  was  the  question  of  elevation,  and 
this  I followed  with  care.  I will  prepare  a table  showing  the 
results.  I recorded  some  thirty  readings  of  the  aneroids  and 
boiled  the  thermometer  every  noon  on  reaching  camp. 

“ I was  impressed  with  the  large  number  of  living  brooks  and 
small  streams  that  we  crossed.  I was  compelled  to  admit  that  it 
is  impossible  to  use  anything  like  pack  animals  over  this  road  ; but 
the  way  for  a man  to  go  in  and  out  is  with  a stout  mule.  There 
is  abundance  of  feed  and  water,  and  a mule  would  stand  the 
marches  first-rate.  A good  ox,  such  as  mine,  is  far  preferable 
for  me  to  a tepoia,  but  the  narrow  paths  are  cruel  on  the  ox  and 
worry  him  almost  to  death,  besides  making  his  feet  and  joints 
almost  raw  by  striking  against  each  other  and  the  sides  of  the 
track.  So  bad  are  the  paths  that  my  ankles  were  so  bruised  by 
the  soles  of  my  boots  striking  them  as  I lifted  one  foot  by  the 
other  in  stepping,  that  they  were  discolored  when  I reached 
Catumbella,  and  very  painful. 

“ Please  state  what  you  think  of  some  one  of  us,  when  we  are 
established  in  Bihe,  making  the  journey  to  Loanda.  I am  told, 
on  the  authority  of  men  who  have  traveled  both  roads,  that 
from  Bailunda  to  Loanda  the  road  is  good  ; some  more  hills  to 
cross  than  on  the  way  to  Catumbella,  but  on  the  whole  a much 
better  road  than  that  to  Catumbella  and  Benguela.  They  say 
that  donkeys  can  bring  in  loads  by  this  road  from  Loanda. 
There  are  many  reasons  why  Loanda  would  be  far  better  for  us 
as  a trading  point  than  Benguela.  There  are  reliable  English 
houses  in  Loanda;  to  wit,  our  consul,  Mr.  Newton,  the  English 
consul,  Mr.  Cohen  ; besides,  the  banking  facilities  are  greater. 
We  could  ship  goods  on  the  Coanza  steamers  to  any  point  upon 
the  river  that  we  wished,  although  the  navigation  of  the  upper 
Coanza  is  impossible. 

“ The  road  to  Loanda  is  not  direct  from  Bihe,  but  is  through 
Bailunda,  where  a station  would  cover  the  ground,  whichever 
road  is  decided  on.  The  king  of  Bailunda,  being  king  almost 
to  the  town  of  Loanda,  makes  this  road  safe,  and  affords  protec- 
tion. It  is  said  that  it  is  possible  to  go  to  the  Coanza  at  the 


SIGN  LANGUAGE. 


55 


highest  point  of  navigation  direct  from  Bihe ; but  there  is  no 
road,  and  it  is  amongst  at  least  uncertain  tribes. 

“ I do  not  think  that  the  fevers  of  Loanda  are  any  worse  than 
those  in  Benguela,  and  have  not  any  fear  of  the  fever  for  the 
few  days  that  any  one  needs  to  stay  on  the  coast.  I could 
scarcely  crawl  out  of  bed  when  I started  from  the  coast  for  the 
interior.  I came  down  from  the  interior,  however,  with  ease, 
rugged  and  well.  The  last  day  we  marched  over  forty  miles, 
and  I walked  over  thirty  of  this,  and  after  dinner  in  Ca- 
tumbella  walked  all  over  town  with  Mr.  Bensande. 

“The  views  upon  the  road  are  fine,  and,  going  toward  the 
coast,  finer  than  when  going  inland. 

“Does  the  question  arise:  How  did  I make  myself  under- 

stood ? I see  one  day  there  is  a note  such  as  this,  in  my  note- 
book : ‘ All  well ; read  much  Scripture  again  today ; studied 
Ambunda ; had  an  old  visitor  with  a small  bowl  of  ochimbombo 
(native  corn-beer),  who  got  nothing;  later,  an  intelligent  mulatto, 
who  claimed  the  surrounding  country  and  village.  He  knew 
something  of  Portuguese,  but  words  often  failed  my  Ambunda 
and  his  Portuguese.  But  signs  were  more  effective  than  words ; 
and  when  my  chief  visitor  went  away  rejoicing  in  the  possession 
of  two  bright  yellow  handkerchiefs  and  a cup  of  sweet  tea,  you 
would  have  agreed  with  him  that  the  visit  was  no  failure.’ 
When  Ambunda  and  Portuguese  fail,  then  recourse  is  had  to 
signs,  and  these  usually  come  off  victorious.  The  mode  here  is 
peculiar.  The  natives  are  much  given  to  signs,  as,  for  tomorrow, 
it  is  “ hena  ” and  a snap  or  two  of  the  fingers  in  front ; yesterday 
is  the  same  word,  with  the  sndp  or  two  backward  over  the 
shoulder.  In  salutations  they  clap  their  hands  or  strike  their 
breasts.  In  passing  before  you  into  a hut,  or  in  company,  they 
stop  and  snap  their  fingers  repeatedly.  We  march  but  slowly 
at  this  rate. 

“We  traveled  all  the  road  as  far  as  Kassange  without  let  or 
hindrance.  In  passing  I called  on  Mr.  Galvao,  and  was  most 
courteously  received,  and  had  a nice  chicken  sent  to  my  camp 
I went  into  camp  at  Mr.  Guimarai’s,  where  we  stopped  on  the 


56 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


way  in.  He  had  a comfortable  little  cabin  cleaned  up  for  my 
use,  and  invited  me  to  dinner.  I found  the  man  to  be  exceed- 
ingly  poor,  and  glad  of  the  little  present  I gave  him  on 
leaving. 

“ I had  a new  experience  of  the  thieves  in  Kassange.  One 
of  our  men  had  a new  handkerchief  stolen  from  him,  and  after 
they  caught  the  thief,  we  had  a terrible  scene,  and  only  the 
exertions  of  secula  Kalay  and  my  own  presence  prevented 
bloodshed.  Our  men  at  last  allowed  the  thief  to  go,  they 
vowing  vengeance,  and  he  perfectly  insane  with  passion.  The 
night  passed  quietly,  but  the  next  day,  after  a good  start,  we  soon 
got  mixed  up  in  a great  caravan,  also  on  its  way  to  Catumbella. 
The  road  closed  up  fast  and  we  entered  the  magnificent  canon, 
Bundiangoi ; when  I turned  a bush  in  the  path,  we  came  upon  a 
crowd  of  men,  who  had  caught  and  were  binding  two  men.  I 
had  given  little  credence  to  the  tales  of  robbers  in  this  section  ; 
but  here,  in  open  day,  my  heart  grew  still,  and  I stood  powerless 
to  help.  Twenty  guns  were  about  these  two  men,  who  were 
soon  bound.  I not  only  saw  them  bound,  but  their  goods 
divided  and  they  themselves  led  away.  Just  then  secula  Kalay, 
the  head  of  my  men,  came  up,  and  he  helped  and  indorsed  these 
men  in  their  deed.  Though  deeply  grieved,  I was  compelled  to 
follow  down  that  canon  with  ten  or  twelve  men  before  me  lead- 
ing one  of  those  poor  bound  captives.  Kalay  told  me  repeatedly 
that  they  would  cut  off  his  head,  and  this  he  said  with  the  most 
demonstrative  action — the  hand  drawn  across  the  neck. 

“ What  was  to  be  done  ? I was  alone,  and  all  that  I could 
say  was  ‘ Dati,  dati  ’ (no,  no).  ‘ Echi  okasi  chimi  ’ (this  is  bad). 
It  was  a horrid  time.  While  we  were  marching  along  that  day 
with  the  captive,  we  met  a few  friends  of  his,  who  spoke  to  him, 
and  he  begged  them  to  rescue  him.  Instantly  three  or  four 
armed  men  sprang  out  of  the  path  behind  me,  and  one  was  in 
the  very  act  of  firing  down  the  path  on  the  whole  line  of  my 
men.  Seeing  this,  I turned  quickly,  facing  them,  and  stood 
between  them  and  my  men,  to  prevent  their  shooting,  command- 
ing them  not  to  shoot.  This  seemed  to  attract  attention.  They 


PERILS  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 


57 


led  the  captive  on,  his  friends  stood  off  one  side  and  watched 
us  pass.  Suddenly  they  led  off  this  captive  to  a camp,  and 
many  of  my  men,  Kalay  amongst  them,  went  also.  I called 
them  back  with  strong  emphasis  ; only  a few  came,  and  although 
I got  an  answer  from  Kalay,  he  did  not  come.  My  tepoia  men 
begged  me  to  go  on.  I could  see  nothing  else  to  be  done,  and 
continued  on  my  way,  not  knowing  the  trick  that  Kalay  was 
about  to  play  on  me.  Having  gone  some  three  miles,  we  were 
marched  into  camp  at  ii.io  a.m.,  three  hours  short  of  the  place 
Kalay  had  repeatedly  promised  to  reach  that  day  — the  Supwa 
Pass  and  Catumbella  River.  I spoke  sharply  and  told  the 
porters  that  this  was  not  the  camp  ; that  we  were  to  go  to 
Supwa.  Finding  that  Kalay  was  not  coming,  and  that  these 
porters  were  all  privy  to  this  arrangement,  I spoke  out  and  told 
them  that  they  and  Kalay  were  bad,  and  that  I should  bring 
this  matter  before  Kwikwi.  Almost  before  my  voice  had  ceased 
to  vibrate,  a man  had  started  back  to  report  to  Kalay;  and  right 
well  he  reported,  for  between  ten  and  eleven,  in  came  Kalay  in 
a state  of  madness.  He  was  wild  that  I should  speak  of  report- 
ing him  to  Kwikwi,  and  did  an  hour’s  pretty  rough  talk.  I gave 
him  time  to  blow,  then  repeated  what  I had  said,  and  told  him 
how  he  had  promised  me  to  reach  Catumbella  the  next  day ; 
and  he,  full  of  wrath,  declared  that  we  would  go  to  Catumbella 
the  next  day.  I held  my  own  and  kept  him  in  disgrace  until 
we  reached  Catumbella  the  next  day  at  6.10,  having  been  on  the 
march  over  eleven  hours,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  way  was 
traveled  at  a tremendous  pace.  We  rested  at  the  river  about 
an  hour.  By  aid  of  an  interpreter  I examined  Kalay  about 
these  days’  work,  and  found  that  he  did  fear  my  telling  Kwikwi ; 
however,  he  said  (I  don’t  believe  it),  they  had  not  killed  that 
man,  only  sold  him. 

“ The  fact  is  that  this  road  from  Catumbella,  for  four  days’ 
march,  is  very  unsafe,  and  in  that  canon  there  is  great  danger, 
and  proper  precaution  is  necessary.  The  next  morning,  about 
two  miles  below  camp,  I stood  in  the  blood  of  a man  murdered 


58 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


in  the  path  the  night  before.  No  place  could  be  better  fitted 
for  murder  and  robbery  than  that  canon,  and  certainly  it  is 
well  supplied  with  records  of  crime  and  sin. 

FRIENDLINESS  OF  THE  KING  OF  BIHE. 

“ We  have  established  the  most  promising  relations  with  the 
kings  of  Bailunda  and  Bihe.  And  for  this  we  must  give  the 
praise  to  our  God.  It  is  so  wonderful,  with  all  the  dislike  of 
the  traders,  that  not  only  are  these  kings  willing  to  have  us  settle 
in  their  country,  but  are  eager  and  anxious  for  this.  I have 
seen  several  times  the  king  of  Bihe’s  secretary,  who  speaks 
Portuguese. 

“ We  have  every  reason  to  look  upon  the  protection  of  the 
king  of  Bailunda  as  good  while  in  his  country,  and  the  king  of 
Bihe  is  equally  ready  to  favor  us  and  care  for  us.  We  have  a 
strong  hold  on  the  king  of  Bihe  on  account  of  the  king  of 
Bailunda,  who  will  readily  receive  us  as  permanent  ‘ children  ’ 
of  his.  Indeed,  the  king  of  Bihe  is  anxious  about  it,  and  fears 
we  may  decide  to  remain  in  Bailunda.  My  impression  is  that  a 
station  should  be  established  there  at  a very  early  date,  and  I 
also  incline  to  this  step  because,  as  far  as  Bailunda,  the  goods 
that  we  may  need  can  be  forwarded  with  safety  by  Bailunda 
carriers. 

“ The  system  of  giving  presents  is  universal,  and  as  the  king 
of  Bailunda  told  me  when  I thanked  him  for  the  ox,  the  goats 
and  the  fuba  (corn  meal)  he  had  sent  us,  ‘ Oh,  don’t  thank  me. 
You  are  under  no  obligation  at  all,  for  do  not  you  give  me  a 
present  ? ’ And  so  we  pay  in  proportion,  and  have  to  reckon  in 
the  present  in  the  price ; and  they  take  things  for  presents  that 
they  refuse  as  in  payment.’’ 

On  reaching  Catumbella  Mr.  Bagster  found  that  an  officer  of 
the  king  of  Bihe,  who  might  be  called  the  Secretary  of  State, 
was  in  town.  Mr.  Bagster  says  : 

“ This  secretary  came  down  from  the  king  with  threatening 


FRIENDLINESS  OF  THE  KING  OF  BIHE. 


59 


letters  to  the  people  of  Catumbella,  complaining  of  the  robbery 
constantly  practiced  on  ‘ his  children  ’ when  they  went  down  to 
trade,  and  informing  the  Portuguese  that  this  thing  must  be 
stopped.  There  were  no  ifs  or  ands , but  ‘just  pay  these  claims 
now  and  reform,  or  — ! ’ Almost  every  house  in  Catumbella 
paid  off  a claim,  some  of  them  being  of  considerable  amount. 

“ The  secretary  was  also  charged  with  the  duty  of  offering  to  me 
all  the  help  I might  need,  and  to  place  himself  at  my  command.  He 
did  this  in  most  elaborate  and  grotesque  demonstrations.  I 
gave  him  messages  to  the  king  of  Bihe.” 

Mr.  Bagster  describes  a scene  in  Catumbella  when,  as  he  was 
sitting  in  a room  writing,  the  secretary  of  the  king  of  Bihe' 
entered  and  commenced  conversation  with  some  Portuguese 
gentlemen  present,  not  noticing  that  Mr.  Bagster  was  near  : 

“ The  secretary  began  a long  and  very  correct  account  of 
three  white  men  who  had  reached  Bailunda ; of  how  much  they 
were  liked  ; of  the  commission  that  the  king  of  Bihe  had  sent 
him  on,  and  how  the  king  of  Bailunda  had  taken  a great  liking 
to  them ; how  they  did  not  use  any  aguardente,  and  would  not 
give  away  any. 

“ Here  one  of  the  men  to  whom  he  was  speaking  stopped  him, 
saying,  ‘ Is  this  one  of  them  ? ’ pointing  to  me.  The  secretary 
was  astonished  to  find  me  there,  but  at  once,  in  voluble  lan- 
guage, began  to  pour  out  the  king’s  message  to  me,  and  offer 
his  services.  Just  a little  faster  than  he  could  talk  he  went  on 
to  describe  to  the  company  how  the  king  of  Bihe'  wanted  us  to 
go  on  to  his  country ; how  he  feared  we  might  stay  in  Bailunda. 
Then  he  told  how  we  were  going  to  build  a house  in  Bihe,  and 
live  there,  not  to  trade  ; no ! but  to  teach  ; that  we  were  padres, 
but  not  like  these  Portuguese  padres ; that  we  had  some  book 
that  we  used.  All  this  talk  was  accompanied  by  frowns  and 
gesticulations  and  signs  of  wonder.  They  could  not  stop  him, 
and  he  wound  up  with  a vivid  account  of  how  I came  down  to 
Catumbella  with  a tepoia,  but  walked  nearly  all  the  way.” 


6o 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


During  Mr.  Bagster’s  absence,  Messrs.  Sanders  and  Miller 
were  well  settled  at  Bailunda,  about  two  miles  from  the  king’s 
compound,  the  king  not  being  willing  they  should  camp  at  a 
greater  distance,  and  were  busily  engaged  in  the  study  of  Am- 
bunda,  in  which  they  were  making  good  progress.  The  king 
appointed  an  officer  to  live  in  their  camp,  and  no  one  was 
allowed  to  molest  them.  Many  presents  were  sent  from  the 
king,  baskets  of  corn  meal,  and  occasionally  a goat  and  some 
beans. 

The  following  letter  from  Mr.  Miller  shows  how  matters  look 
to  this  Hampton  freedman  : 


“Bailunda,  May  i,  1881. 

“We  have  got  as  far  toward  Bihe  as  the  Bailunda  country. 
We  had  pretty  hard  times,  indeed,  in  getting  here.  The  roads, 
if  they  may  be  so  called,  are  the  worst  I ever  saw  ; so  much  so 
that  in  many  places  I could  hardly  walk.  Our  seven  donkeys 
could  not  carry  loads  for  a single  day.  Mr.  Bagster’s  riding  ox 
did  well.  Mr.  Sanders  and  I are  in  camp  here,  waiting  the 
return  of  Mr.  Bagster  from  Benguela,  who  was  bound  to  go  for 
cloth  to  pay  our  way.  After  several  days  out,  it  was  quite  plain 
that  more  cloth  was  needed  ; so  Mr.  Bagster  thought  it  best 
for  us  to  stop  here  while  he  goes  to  Benguela.  This  country 
appears  to  be  better  than  that  we  have  passed,  but  far  below 
what  it  is  represented  to  be.  The  population  is  not  what  is 
expected,  though  quite  intelligent.  The  aspect  of  the  country 
is  somewhat  pleasing,  covered  with  low  trees  of  a dwarfed 
nature,  and  adorned  with  tall  grass  and  thousands  of  white-ant 
mounds.  The  natives  cultivate  the  soil  but  little,  raising  corn, 
potatoes,  beans,  and  some  other  vegetables,  to  a very  limited 
extent.  The  king  appears  to  be  quite  friendly  toward  us,  send- 
ing presents  of  corn,  meal,  beans,  potatoes,  goats,  etc.  When 
we  got  this  height  above  the  sea,  we  hoped  to  outsoar  chills 
and  fever  ; but  not  so.  I had  a slight  attack  here  for  the  first 
time  ; so  also  did  Mr.  Sanders.  So  I am  confident  that  we 
shall  be  subject  to  fevers  here  as  at  Benguela,  or  any  other  fever- 


MUCANOS . 


6 


stricken  locality.  The  thermometer  stands  higher  at  noon  than 
ever  at  Benguela,  though  the  heat  is  not  felt  so  much.  Morn- 
ings and  nights  are  quite  cool ; sleeping  under  four  or  five 
blankets  is  comfortable;  winter  clothes  can  be  worn  without 
discomfort.  Our  house  is  a tent,  with  the  addition  of  a hut  in 
which  we  do  our  cooking.  The  two  young  men  that  were  with 
us  at  Benguela  were  sent  home  to  Loanda.  We  spend  most  of 
our  time  in  getting  the  language.  We  are  getting  on  well,  and 
shall  soon  be  able  to  make  ourselves  perfectly  understood.  I 
suppose  I am  writing  what  you  already  know,  but  I feel  it  my 
duty  to  write  to  you  and  give  my  views  of  what  I have  seen. 
Little  rain  has  fallen  since  our  arrival,  and  this  is  said  to  be  the 
rainy  season.  We  are  encamped  near  the  head  of  a small  river ; 
this  I hope  does  not  affect  us.  At  present  we  are  all  well,  and 
hope  you  are  the  same.’’ 


MUCANOS. 

Serpa  Pinto  says  that  the  word  which  strikes  most  terror  in 
Bihe  is  mucano.  This  is  a fine  levied  by  any  person  who  deems 
himself  injured,  and  which,  without  waiting  for  a formal  trial, 
he  can  himself  proceed  to  collect  from  the  offending  party.  It 
is  a system  which  affords  every  opportunity  for  the  most  unjust 
demands.  Letters  received  from  Mr.  Sanders  while  at  Bailunda, 
May  9,  speak  of  this  matter : 

“ We  have  been  somewhat  troubled  about  the  matter  of 
mucanos.  Mr.  Bensande  and  others  on  the  coast  said  we  would 
be  entangled  by  the  natives  and  stripped  of  all  we  have.  I have 
been  pleased  to  hear  from  Mr.  Coimbra,  as  well  as  from  our 
guide,  that  against  ourselves  personally  they  cannot  have  mu- 
canos ; that  ‘we  would  be  robbed  through  our  slaves  ; that  the 
master  is  compelled  to  pay  for  his  people.’  Further  questions 
elicited  the  information  that  servants  who  are  hired  by  the  day, 
or  week,  and  nightly  return  to  their  own  houses,  bring  no 
responsibility  to  their  employers.  All  take  it  for  granted  that 
our  declarations  as  to  purposes  are  merely  made  to  conceal  our 


62 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


real  intentions.  Hence  they  doubt  not  but  that  we  shall  own 
slaves.  Mr.  Galvao  gave  the  reason  of  our  freedom  from 
mucanos  : * Every  white  man  is  a soba  here.’ 

“This  Sr.  Lucas  Coimbra  is  a chief  and  counsellor  of  the 
king.  He  has  a larger  place  in  Bihe,  it  is  said.  Naturally  the 
greater  privileges  and  distinctions  enjoyed  here  make  this  the 
favorite  residence.  Through  him  the  king  has  invited  us  to  go 
and  see  some  of  the  ceremonies  in  honor  of  some  ancestors.  I 
mean  to  accept,  trusting  that  the  occasion  will  be  less  tedious 
than  visits  of  state.” 


THE  KING’S  FESTIVAL. 

“ Going  to  the  festival  with  Sr.  Lucas,  we  were  received  in  fine 
style  at  the  outer  gate  by  two  men.  Passing  through  another 
gate  we  came  to  that  in  which  the  king  receives  and  in  which 
he  tries  cases.  He  soon  came  from  among  the  people  and  gave 
his  welcome.  Then  two  huge  pots  of  ochimbombo  were  brought 
out  for  our  refreshment.  Each  required  two  men  to  carry  it. 
Those  with  us  felt  their  task  a burden  before  we  left  the  festival. 
For  no  beer  could  be  left  or  the  king  might  say  his  gift  was 
despised.  The  manner  of  drinking  makes  abstinence  the  pref- 
erable alternative.  A large  gourd  is  filled;  sometimes  two- 
gallon  gourds  are  used.  An  attendant  brings  it,  and  squatting 
before  some  person,  drinks.  This  proves  it  is  not  drugged.  He 
then  cleans  the  rim  with  the  palm  of  the  hand,  and  passes  the 
dish.  The  recipient  drinks,  wipes,  passes,  etc.  The  palms  of 
some  of  these  persons  are  clean,  others  are  filthy.  Though 
they  consider  the  gourd  in  better  condition  for  use  even  after  a 
soiled  hand  has  been  passed  over  it,  a stranger  does  not  care  to 
drink  with  them. 

“ After  resting  we  went  down  to  view  the  ceremonies.  Some 
women  decked  with  red  handkerchiefs  and  other  finery  were 
dancing,  while  some  men  kept  time  by  clapping  of  hands,  an 
unusual  way  of  keeping  time  for  the  dance.  These  women 
were  supposed  to  be  possessed  by  certain  ancestral  spirits  of 
the  king,  who  had  come  from  the  other  world.  Their  various 


7 HE  KING'S  FESTIVAL . 63 

motions  were  the  working  of  the  spirits.  About  four  hundred 
persons  seemed  to  be  present,  though  but  few  took  part.  After 
the  women  stopped  the  men  danced,  but  we  soon  took  our  leave. 
On  this  day  the  king  was  not  dressed  in  state.  Mr.  Miller  went 
on  the  next  and  great  day,  but  noticed  no  difference  in  the  exer- 
cises. The  king  was  robed  in  state. 

“ After  the  king  had  three  times  asked  to  see  my  rifle,  I took 
it  to  show  him.  After  doing  business  he  led  the  way  to  a 
bare  spot  by  a private  entrance.  At  the  door  he  significantly 
remarked  that  if  it  were  desired  to  give  a present  without  the 
knowledge  of  his  people,  it  should  come  by  night  through  this 
entrance.  This  from  the  supreme  judge  of  the  land  we  would 
think  quite  out  of  place. 

“ The  caution  of  the  king  saved  an  exhibition  of  my  unskill- 
fulness. * Shoot  high  lest  some  one  be  hurt,’  was  the  drift  of 
his  words.  He  pulled  the  trigger  once,  and  seemed  delighted 
with  the  whole  performance.  Then  he  took  myself  and  guide 
into  his  private  premises.  The  first  enclosure  is  about  forty  by 
eighty  feet.  In  the  middle  is  a little  attempt  at  ornamental  gar- 
dening, but  in  a very  rudimentary  state.  In  one  corner  stands 
a small  hut,  over  whose  doorway  hangs  a charm.  Against  the 
wall  leans  a doll  of  wood.  It  is  two  feet  high,  and  rudely  made. 
Its  face  is  depicted  on  a flat  surface  with  black  paint.  A cloth 
wound  about  the  body  dresses  it  in  native  style.  A small  tree, 
nearly  dead,  and  in  the  centre  of  a stone  heap,  stands  before 
the  hut.  It  is  loaded  with  6kulls  of  goats,  and  all  together  are 
fairly  clothed  with  cobwebs.  This  seems  to  be  their  religious 
corner. 

“ The  other  huts  probably  are  storerooms,  or  belong  to  some 
of  the  hundred  wives  he  is  said  to  have.  It  may  be  that  this 
matter  of  polygamy  will  prove  as  great  an  obstacle  as  in  the  Zulu 
mission.  I saw  the  queen  sitting  by  two  children  as  we  passed 
through  this  enclosure.  The  next  is  small  and  contains  no  huts. 
Here  the  king,  remarking,  ‘ Enemies  go  no  farther,’  opened  a 
door  and  preceded  us  within.  The  first  hut  had  on  the  outside 
attempts  at  frescoing  and  rude  pictures  of  animals.  This  was 


64 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


the  only  noticeable  thing.  Five  or  six  ordinary  huts  were  there 
also.  The  next  enclosure  was  just  a repetition  of  a cluster  of 
huts.  Each  hut  belongs  to  a wife  or  concubine.  These  en- 
closures are  separated  by  wooden  palisades.  I should  have  said 
that  from  the  place  where  the  rifle  was  fired  there  is  a splendid 
view  of  a part  of  the  country.  Many  villages,  or  rather  the 
clumps  of  full-grown  trees,  indicating  villages,  could  be  seen. 
They  seem  to  choose  hill-tops  for  their  villages.  The  popula- 
tion from  this  point  of  observation  appears  much  larger  than 
from  the  other  side  of  the  hill. 

“ Mr.  Miller  and  I have  had  light  attacks  of  fever  this  month, 
but  they  are  easily  controlled.  Just  now  both  of  us  are  well. 
We  are  beset  by  many  beggars  [visitors],  but  have  entirely 
ceased  giving  to  them. 

“Beginning  to  understand  the  language  I find  it  necessary  to 
make  Barros  correct  himself  quite  often.  If  I say,  ‘I  do  not 
wish  to  give  handkerchiefs  for  fowls,’ he  says,  ‘There  are  no 
handkerchiefs,  will  you  take  riscado  ? ’ Soon  some  handkerchiefs 
must  be  used,  then  they  will  say,  ‘ The  white  man  is  a liar.’ 
When  I make  him  give  my  words,  he  complains  that  I do  not 
understand  how  to  do  business  with  the  Kimbundas. 

“ The  getting  of  the  language  is  slow ; but  on  looking  back 
some  progress  is  to  be  discovered.  The  Zulu  and  the  Otyiherero 
[books  in  which  have  been  taken  out  by  the  missionaries]  help 
us  in  many  places.” 

• 

Mr.  Bagster  having  completed  his  business,  left  the  coast 
again,  June  30,  for  the  interior.  “ My  start,  in  much  weakness,” 
he  writes,  “ was  very  greatly  helped  by  Mr.  J.  Bensande  of  Catum- 
bella.  His  care  of  me  and  the  kindness  and  courtesy  have 
been  so  great  that  all  our  seculos  call  him  my  brother,  though 
he  is  of  strict  Jewish  parentage.  He  received  me  into  his 
house,  sent  me  messengers  to  tell  me  my  men  had  come,  kept 
me  for  over  two  days’  stop  ; I was  very  sick  and  he  gave  me 
his  own  bed,  accompanied  me  on  the  way  to  see  me  off,  sent  on 
before  to  our  camp  a joint  of  beef,  two  chickens  roasted,  eggs 


COLD  WEATHER. 


65 


boiled,  etc.  Thus  the  Lord  cares  for  us,  and  thus  the  hearts  of 
men  are  at  his  call.  Mr.  Bensande  leaves  for  England  in  a 
month.” 

Mr.  Bagster  had  intelligence  from  Mr.  Sanders  that  a mu- 
cano  was  threatening  in  consequence  of  the  misbehavior  of 
some  of  the  porters ; also  that  there  had  been  a robbery  of  two 
bales  of  goods,  for  which  the  king  proposed  to  make  the  thieves 
pay  in  wax,  or  ivory,  or  rubber.  “ I shall  not  agree,”  writes  Mr. 
Bagster,  “ to  receive  anything  in  trade,  for  two  reasons  : first,  we 
are  hated  by  the  traders  and  watched  eagerly  for  any  chance 
to  destroy  us.  We  are  surrounded  by  traders,  who  would  hold  a 
feast  at  the  news  of  our  destruction  (I  put  it  none  too  strong) ; 
and  I have  been  told  by  Silva  Porta  (who  suspects  us  of  trading) 
that  he  or  we  leave  Bihe,  if  he  can  only*  catch  us  at  that  game. 
You  may  judge  who  would  leave.  Second,  I have  given  my 
word  not  to  do  any  trading,  and  said  that  the  American  Board 
of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions  do  not  allow  their 
missionaries  to  trade.” 

COLD  WEATHER  IN  BAILUNDA INTRIGUES  OF  TRADERS  AGAINST 

THE  MISSIONARIES. 

Mr.  Bagster  writes  from  Bailunda,  July  25,  1881  : 

“Your  letters,  dated  May  13th,  and  17th,  came  to  me  duly  on 
the  20th  inst.  Fingers  cold  this  morning,  Thermometer  52  °. 
Some  nights  it  goes  to  the  region  of  40  °;  then  my  tender 
fingers  and  toes  feel  it,  but  the  days  are  getting  hot ; noons 
the  thermometer  is  85°  to  90°  in  the  shade. 

“ Last  month  I wrote  you  as  to  the  Loanda  route.  I lean  to 
it  more  and  more.  We  leave  Bailunda  for  Bihe,  after  all  our 
delays,  tomorrow  morning,  It  is  six  days’  march ; already  the 
most  of  our  loads  are  a day’s  journey  on  the  road.  We  also 
should  have  been  on  the  march,  but  the  king  of  Bailunda’s 
ambassador  to  the  king  of  Bihe,  sent  on  our  behalf,  was  not 
ready ; he  has  only  4 to  drink  beer  today  ’ and  will  go 
tomorrow. 


66 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


“When  we  first  reached  Benguela,  letters  were  written  to  the 
king  of  Bailunda  purporting  to  be  from  the  governor  of  Ben- 
guela, telling  the  king  to  murder  us  and  take  our  goods  — for  we 
were  going  to  build  a fort,  and  blow  up 'all  the  people  ; and  that 
we  were  big  fetish.  Another  letter  was  written  to  Bihe,  and  even 
more  dreadful  things  invented  about  us.  Now  comes  the  ques- 
tion: ‘How ’does  this  affect  the  natives  ? ’ The  cupidity  of  the 
natives  is  worked  upon  strongly.  Their  intense  superstition  can 
hardly  bear  the  strain  put  upon  it  by  the  half  believed  tales  of  the 
traders,  and  also  by  seeing  us  so  different  from  the  ‘ white  men  ’ 
before  known  to  them.  The  more  direct  result  of  these  betters 
has  been,  that  the  king  of  Bihe  has  sent  to  the  king  of  Bailunda 
ambassadors  to  consult  as  to  our  murder.  The  other  day  the 
king  of  Bailunda’s  councilors  met  to  discuss  this  question,  and 
were  coming  to  an  unfavorable  conclusion  toward  us,  when  the 
old  king  came  into  council,  and,  hearing  them,  told  them  in  a 
rage  that  if  they  hurt  us  he  should  abdicate  and  return  to  his 
old  home  near  Loanda.  They  were  not  prepared  for  this,  and 
gave  way.  Now  the  king  sends  to  Bihd,  where  they  are  very 
uncertain  about  us,  and  tells  them  that  ‘ if  they  take  off  our 
heads,  they  will  have  to  do  the  same  to  him.  They  must  treat 
us  well.’  Do  not  understand  too  much  from  this,  for  it  is  only 
one  man,  humanly  speaking,  who  is  on  our  side ; and  the  other 
evening,  when  I showed  the  magic  lantern,  he  was  almost  over- 
come. He  had  exceedingly  hard  work  to  carry  it,  even  after 
having  it  carefully  explained  to  him. 

“ Of  this  land  there  is  much  to  say,  but  only  one  truth  is  to  be 
presented ; this  Bailunda  fills  the  picture.  Bihe  has  not  one 
tenth  the  power  of  Bailunda,  and  the  people  in  Bihe  will  come 
to  Bailunda  to  ask  justice  or  interference  in  their  behalf.  To- 
day the  king  of  Bailunda  is  our  friend.  He  says,  we  have 
‘ white  hearts,’  because  we  give  no  fire-water,  no  powder,  and 
no  guns.  But  with  all  the  great  difficulty  seems  to  be  to  get 
them  to  understand  what  we  have  come  here  for,  when  we  will 
neither  buy  wax,  rubber,  ivory,  fuba,  nor  slaves.  ‘ What  are 
they  here  for  ? ’ is  the  question  asked  again  and  again.  We 


LEARNING  THE  LANGUAGE.  67 

answer  to  the  best  of  our  ability,  but  there  is  nothing  to  lay  hold 
upon. 

“ In  the  language,  Brother  Sanders  is  far  ahead  ; his  help  has 
been  the  main  stay,  aird  to  him  belongs  the  honor  of  what 
has  been  done.  Brother  Miller  has  many  words  in  memory. 
Brother  Sanders  has  now  twelve  hundred  or  more  words  written, 
fairly  correct  for  a first  list,  and  better  still,  has  begun  very  suc- 
cessfully the  reduction  of  the  language  to  principles  and  into 
tables,  with  their  changes. 

“ I realize  that  for  some  time  our  buildings  in  Bihe'  must  be 
of  the  most  imperfect  character,  because  of  the  great  want  of 
suitable  timber  for  use,  and  also  because  of  the  jealousy  which 
would  be  felt  if  we  should  build  with  brick  or  stone.  There  are 
times  when  a few  days  or  weeks  are  full  of  importance  and 
meaning.  We  believe  it  is  so  now.  And  if  we  are  on  earth 
when  this  letter  reaches  you,  we  may  say  the  crisis  is  past,  and 
we  may  probably  be  allowed  to  remain  in  peace  in  Bihe.  We 
hear  no  sighs,  no  discouraging  words  in  our  camp ; we  jus 
keep  on  rejoicing  and  going  forward. 

“ July  26th.  We  wait  today,  being  delayed  by  the  king.  We 
leave  tomorrow.  There  is  much  of  uncertainty,  though  the  out- 
look is  better.  We  had  an  audience  with  the  king  last  evening 
and  find  that  there  is  a deep  current  of  love  for  our  cloth,  in  all 
his  devices  to  get  us  to  stay.  Do  not  fear  for  us  in  the  least. 
We  have  carefully  weighed  the  question,  and  we  go  on,  not  only 
hoping,  but  fully  believing,  that  no  real  danger  will  come  to  us, 
as  evidently  our  Father  is  our  leader.  We  hope  to  find  that  we 
can  station  ourselves  with  “ Kapolro,”  who  'is  the  nephew  of 
the  king  of  Bihe,  and  equally  powerful  on  the  north  branch  of 
the  river  Quito,  and  in  the  thickest  part  of  the  population,  and 
in  the  very  spot  for  learning  the  language  and  for  advance,  it 
being  next  to  the  Ganguelas,  and  the  language  in  use  being 
both  the  Ambunda  or  Bihe,  and  the  Ganguela.  Nearly  half  the 
words  in  use  are  common,  and  we  have  at  once  the  power  to 
step  over  into  the  Ganguela  country  prepared  to  work.  Also 
we  are  the  very  farthest  distance  possible  from  the  king. 


68 


WEST  CENTRA L AFR/CA. 


“ July  2Qth.  Today  we  are  at  the  camp,  near  the  village  of 
the  seculo  (petty  chief),  who  has  been  to  Catumbella  three  times 
for  us.  He  is  the  best,  by  far,  that  we  have  found.  We  go  on 
to  Bihe  tomorrow.  I now  wish  we  had  no  ambassador  with  us, 
but  we  could  not  help  it ; taking  him  was  the  only  way  to  get 
off  from  the  king’s  place  at  Bailunda.  Our  rising  hour  on  the 
march  is  4.30  a.m.  There  is  no  man  slain  in  our  army.  We 
are  strong  and  go  forward.  We  still  look  to  the  lands  north  of 
the  Quito  and  to  the  part  belonging  to  Kapolro,  who  is  nephew 
of  the  king  of  Bihe,  but  quite  independent  of  him. 

BACK  AGAIN  TO  BAILUNDA. 

Instead  of  planting  themselves  at  Bihe,  north  of  the  Quito, 
our  brethren  were  compelled  by  the  intrigues  against  them  to 
return  to  the  station  in  Bailunda  and  wait  further  developments. 
There  is  enough  for  them  to  do  there,  as  Mr.  Bagster  has  writ- 
ten. In  any  event  Bailunda  must  remain  a commanding  posi- 
tion. Mr.  Sanders  writes,  August  23d,  1881  : 

“ You  doubtless  were  surprised  to  see  Bailunda  at  the  head  of 
the  page.  After  all,  this  is  our  first  station.  The  last  letters 
were  sent  While  on  our  way  to  Bihe.  Your  letter  that  came  last 
month  suggested  that  we  might  already  have  chosen  Bailunda. 
Though  we  had  thought  of  the  matter  before,  we  considered  it 
again,  but  decided  to  go  on.  We  went  on  with  delays  and  vexa- 
tions, which  arose  chiefly  from  the  presence  of  the  king’s  am- 
bassador. He  made  us  pay  more  than  we  ought,  and  in  all 
cases  acted  contrary  to  us.  When  we  arrived  at  Biheli,  a place 
that  is  claimed  by  Bailunda  and  also  by  Bihe,  he  called  on  the 
petty  ruler  with  our  little  gift.  On  returning,  he  said  an  ambas- 
sador had  passed  down  but  three  days  before  with  a message 
from  King  Chileneo  of  Bihe  to  this  effect:  ‘Don’t  bring  those 
whites  here ; if  you  do,  you  will  leave  them  here  to  be  murdered 
and  plundered.’  Hence  the  ambassador  refused  to  let  us  go  on. 
We  did  not  believe  the  report.  He  had  so  acted  that  we  had 
no  confidence  in  him.  We  said,  ‘Go  on;  we  will  take  the  risk/ 


BA  CK  A GAIN  IN  BA  IL  UNDA . 


69 


He  refused,  and  could  not  be  induced  to  let  us  go.  We  desired 
to  pay  off  the  carriers,  and  send  on  to  Bihe  for  more.  This  he 
would  not  allow.  It  seems  ridiculous  that  we  could  not  pay  off 
our  own  hired  men  ; it  also  seems  ridiculous  that  my  six  tepoia 
men  refused  to  do  as  I told  them,  but  it  is  a fact.  We  had 
marched  but  two  hours  one  day  and  the  carriers  rushed  into  a 
camp.  We  desired  to  go  on,  and  bade  my  men  take  the  tepoia 
and  come  on.  They  flatly  refused.  What  could  be  done.  We 
might  have  drawn  revolvers  and  routed  the  whole  two  hundred, 
but  our  missionary  career  would  have  ended  there.  Our  loads 
make  us  dependent  upon  carriers,  and  they  will  do  as  they 
please.  Kalay  always  acts  best,  but  is  afraid  to  go  with  us 
longer  ; so  great  is  the  jealousy  against  him  that  he  fears  for  his 
life.  The  carriers  generally  are  headstrong.  We  cannot  decide 
our  dealings  with  them  as  we  should  between  master  and  servant 
in  America.  For  instance,  while  at  Biheli,  Mr.  Bagster  and  I 
(expecting  to  be  able  to  plant  ourselves  where  we  pleased  in 
Bailunda)  thought  it  better  to  turn  back  and  take  a place  near 
the  twenty  or  more  villages  which  we  had  passed.  Mr.  Miller 
said,  ‘ Why  not  go  and  tell  them  that  they  must  take  us  on  or  be 
paid  off  ? ’ That  was  it  exactly.  In  America  it  might  have 
been  possible  to  do  this ; here  we  were  not  allowed  to  go  on  or 
to  pay  off  the  carriers.  If  we  had  tried  the  latter,  not  one  would 
have  touched  the  cloth,  and  it  would  have  been  a case  of  no 
payment ; the  fact  that  it  had  been  offered  would  have  made  no 
difference.  The  ambassador  said  we  must  stop  in  Biheli  four 
days,  till  the  king  of  Bailunda  could  be  consulted.  Nothing 
could  shake  him.  Our  stock  of  cloth  made  us  anxious  about 
the  matter,  and  we  decided,  contrary  to  Mr.  Miller’s  wish,  to  go 
back  and  select  a place  near  the  village  and  establish  a station. 
To  this  we  obtained  the  consent  of  the  ambassador.  Mr.  Bag- 
ster and  I started  immediately  to  choose  the  place.  Mr.  Miller 
was  tb  follow  with  the  goods  next  day.  In  two  days  we  came 
to  Kalay’s  village.  We  prospected  here  without  satisfactory 
results.  The  next  day  our  men  refused  to  go  on.  We  went 
alone,  and  getting  on  a high  ridge  viewed  the  country.  One 


70 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


place  gave  promise  of  a good  location  ; going  there,  we  found  it 
the  best  yet  seen.  Here  we  decided  to  locate.  On  our  return 
we  met  a carrier  about  two  miles  from  the  place,  who  said  our 
loads  were  but  a short  way  off,  and  we  soon  came  to  the  camp. 
Mr.  Miller  reported  that  when  they  came  to  the  place  where  we 
had  passed  the  night,  the  carriers  were  furious  that  we  had  gone 
on,  and  taking  up  their  loads  again,  pushed  on  after  us.  The 
exact  cause  of  their  feeling  I do  not  know.  They  were  probably 
afraid  that  evil  consequences  would  be  brought  upon  them  by 
the  king. 

“ Having  reached  camp,  we  found  it  too  late  to  get  the  men  to 
take  our  things  where  we  desired.  Next  morning  we  paid  them 
off.  The  ambassador  was  not  satisfied  that  we  should  stop 
there,  nor  were  the  people ; they  all  feared  the  king.  He  has 
declared  that  we  are  his  whites,  and  if  the  people  had  let  us  stay 
in  their  vicinity  the  king  would  have  come  and  destroyed  them. 
Hence  the  only  plan  that  satisfied  all  was  that  one  of  us  should 
go  to  the  king  and  see  about  it.  So  I went,  not  taking  our  little 
interpreter,  as  these  fellows  always  put  the  case  according  to 
their  own  views,  instead  of  as  we  say.  I arrived  near  our  old 
camp  at  five  p.m.  Next  morning  I visited  the  king.  -Others 
understood  what  I had  to  say.  The  king  found  it  convenient  to 
appear  angry  because  I came  without  Jose.  However,  it  was 
evident  that  the  anger  was  in  appearance  only,  so  that  he  might 
carry  out  his  purpose.  He  said  he  would  not  let  us  go  on  to  Bihe 
at  present  ; that  we  should  stop  here  near  him,  or  he  would  take 
us  and  all  our  things  (except  a tent  and  a few  other  articles  that 
he  would  keep)  back  to  the  coast.  He  found  it  convenient  to 
refer  to  Braga’s  letter,  and  asked  if  we  desired  to  be  away  from 
him  that  we  might  build  a fort  and  possess  the  country  ? He 
also  pitched  at  my  tepoia  men  in  such  a way  that  they  laid  them- 
selves in  the  dust  (the  token  of  utter  submission).  Then  he 
ordered  one  of  them  to  go  and  bring  all  the  rest  of  our  goods. 
I sent  a note  to  Mr.  Bagster  recounting  the  result. 

“There  was  nothing  to  do  but  to  come  back.  To  stay  where 
we  were  we  should  have  to  fight  both  the Jdng  and  the  people  of 


BACK  AG  AIK  IN  BAILUNDA. 


7* 


that  place.  For  had  the  people  brought  us  supplies  it  would  be 
rebellion  ; and  had  they  not  been  active  in  expelling  us  the 
king  would  have  laid  their  lands  waste.  Mr.  Bagster  said  that 
while  I was  away  they  showed  great  unwillingness  for  us  to 
remain  among  them. 

“ Soon  after  I had  returned  from  the  king,  a Portuguese  half- 
breed  from  Bihe,  of  whom  I had  heard,  came  by  the  camp  and, 
seeing  me,  came  in.  He  said  that  there  was  nothing  the  matter 
in  Bihe' ; that  Silva  Porto  had  left  a house  for  our  occupancy, 
and  that  the  king  was  expecting  us.  The  last  clause  struck  me 
as  indefinite,  so  I asked  further,  and  he  said  that  so  far  as  he 
knew,  the  king  of  Bihe  was  well  disposed  toward  us.  He  vol- 
unteered to  act  as  interpreter,  so  I went  to  the  king  of  Bailunda 
again.  First,  I asked  that  the  Portuguese  would  state  to  the 
king  what  he  had  stated  to  me.  ‘ Let  us  speak  about  your  other 
matters,’  said  he,  ‘not  about  that.’  The  upshot  was  that  I got 
no  more  light  than  I had  in  the  morning. 

“ One  thing  struck  me  as  I talked  with  Mr.  Gallses  on  our 
way  to  the  king.  He  said  that  we  must  not  expect  to  be  allowed 
to  build  far  from  the  king ; that  if  we  had  gone  on  the  king  of 
Bihe  would  not  have  allowed  us  a residence  more  than  three  or 
four  miles  from  his  village,  just  as  is  the  case  of  all  the  other 
whites.  As  none  of  my  tepoia  men  dared  help  me  to  get  back 
where  Messrs.  Bagster  and  Miller  were,  I had  to  stop  here  or 
abandon  my  tepoia  and  two  loads,  which  I did  not  think  wise 
to  do. 

“If  the  men  had  dared  to  take  me,  I would  have  gone  to 
Messrs.  Bagster  and  Miller  and  have  urged  that  we  stop  where 
we  were  until  the  last  moment,  when,  by  giving  in,  we  could  mend 
matters.  By  this,  we  might  have  carried  our  point  of  building 
where  we  desired.  Not  one  man,  however,  dared  lift  a finger  to 
help.  So  I had  to  stay,  and  Mr.  Bagster,  as  soon  as  he  read 
how  matters  stood  here,  decided  that  there  was  no  alternative 
but  to  come  back.  So  here  we  are,  a few  rods  from  our  old 
camp. 

“ We  conclude  that  it  is  God’s  will  that  for  the  present  we 


72 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


stop  here.  We  expect  and  hope  that  these  are  but  temporary 
quarters,  say  for  two  or  three  years,  and  for  only  a part  of  our 
number.  Of  course,  some  of  us  expect  to  push  on  to  Bihe,  as 
soon  as  the  others  come  in.  We  are  now  building  houses,  and 
have  been  at  that  and  other  work  for  about  two  weeks.'  It  goes 
forward  slowly. 

“ The  donkeys  work  very  well,  though  they  have  been  used 
only  two  or  three  days  thus  far.  We  do  not  like  our  location. 
Water  is  not  as  convenient  as  we  desire.  The  trees  do  not 
afford  such  timber  as  we  would  like.  It  has  been  with  great 
difficulty  that  posts  and  plates  of  from  nine  to  fourteen  feet 
length  have  been  found.  Mr.  Bagster,  who  does  the  calculating 
and  matching,  finds  it  difficult  to  obtain  satisfactory  results  on 
account  of  the  crookedness  of  the  stuff.  Nature  seems  to  pro- 
vide stuff  fit  for  making  native  huts,  and  not  much  more.  Yes- 
terday we  heard  of  a place  about  six  miles  distant,  which  the 
king  thinks  we  shall  find  a better  location.  We  shall  examine 
it,  but  shall  finish  this  place  in  order  to  have  a shelter  from  the 
soon  expected. rains.  The  king  sent  for  one  of  us,  on  the  23d, 
and  showed  a letter  from  Barros.  The  latter  had  told  the  gov- 
ernor of  Benguela  about  the  letters  sent  from  Catumbella  to 
Bihe.  The  governor  said  this  king  must  ‘get  and  transmit 
these  letters  to  him  or  be  held  responsible  for  the  consequences/ 
The  king  was  told  by  us  that  he  might  do  as  he  pleased.  For 
our  part,  we  shall  pay  no  attention  to  these  or  any  other  letters 
that  may  be  written.  We  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  the 
matter. 

9 

“ As  to  ladies  coming,  Mr.  Miller  says  he  would  not  recom- 
mend an  acquaintance  to  come.  Mr.  Bagster  thinks  that  just 
now,  if  he  could  advise  he  would  say,  ‘Wait  a little,  we  are  un- 
settled.’ But  at  the  same  time  he  feels  that  they  can  get  on 
very  well  here.  For  my  part,  I feel,  that  any  lady  devoted  to 
work  for  Christ,  would  not  think  she  were  enduring  too  great 
hardships  here.  I think  Mrs.  Walter  will  say  that  the  hardships 
(or  better,  inconveniences)  are  far  less  than  she  expected.  At 
first  arrival  it  looked  a little  dubious,  but  with  better  acquaint- 


HOUSEBUILDING. 


73 


ance  I have  no  fear  about  their  coming.  There  are  annoyances 
and  perplexities,  but  none  so  great  as  I expected.  We  believe 
that  the  Lord  has  many  people  here,  and  if  we  walk  according 
to  his  will,  we  may  be  used  to  bring  some  to  a knowledge  of 
him.” 

Letters  received  from  Messrs.  Sanders  and  Miller  at  Bailunda, 
of  as  late  a date  as  October  3,  giye  encouraging  reports.  The 
king  of  Bihe  had  sent  another  message  inviting  the  missionaries 
to  his  country.  Mr.  Sanders  replied  that  after  Mr.  Bagster 
returned  from  the  coast  this  invitation  should  be  considered. 
Of  the  two  houses  which  they  were  building  near  the  king’s 
village,  and  which  they  hope  to  have  finished  by  the  time  the 
reinforcements  arrived,  Mr.  Miller  writes  : 

“ The  dimensions  of  the  houses  are  thirty-one  by  fourteen 
feet,  seven  feet  to  the  plates.  They  are  only  one  story  high, 
each  having  a shed  seven  feet  by  twelve.  One  has  a veranda 
which,  I think,  will  be  very  convenient.  At  present  we  have 
dirt  floors  and  mud  walls,  supported  by  upright  poles  inserted 
in  the  walls.  The  mud  cracks  very  much,  but  some  lime  of 
inferior  quality  is  found  near  the  river  that  may  be  used  in  some 
way  to  advantage.  Each  house  has  two  doors  and  three  win- 
dows, and  these  we  propose  to  make  of  heavy,  clumsy  timber, 
chopped  into  plank  by  the  natives,  and  brought  from  a long 
distance.  The  plates  are  made  of  trees  that  we  managed  to 
straighten  a little  after  a good  deal  of  lining,  chipping,  and 
chopping.  The  rafters  are  poles  averaging  four  or  five  inches 
in  diameter  at  the  larger  end.  Smaller  poles  answer  the  place 
of  sheathing,  bound  on  with  bark  strings,  and  the  roof  is  cov- 
ered with  grass,  about  two  feet  thick.  The  natives  did  the  most 
of  the  thatching,  and  say  it  will  not  leak.  It  is  a very  cool 
resort,  and  we  hope  to  cover  the  other  roof  soon.  Enough  grass 
is  already  bought,  and  on  the  ground. 

“ Agriculture  appears  to  be  advancing  slowly.  We  have  not 
planted  anything  yet,  but  have  bought  a good  supply  of  corn 


74 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


and  beans,  meal,  etc.  I think  we  have  about  seventy-five  of 
eighty  bushels  of  corn.  This  I think  will  carry  us  through  the 
expected  time  of  scarcity,  though  I believe  we  could  now  buy 
double  the  above  quantity.  It  came  for  days  after  we  told  them 
we  had  enough,  and  still  some  will  come  and  try  to  sell. 

“ We  are  getting  along  very  well  with  the  language,  and  hope 
in  due  time  to  be  able  to  teach  and  preach  to  this  people.  My 
present  impression  concerning  them  is  quite  hopeful,  and  I 
believe  they  can  be  elevated  far  above  their  present  condition 
by  means  of  mission  work.  They  are  very  willing  to  work 
whenever  anything  is  to  be  gained,  and  they  apply  themselves 
to  their  appointed  tasks  with  hearty  zeal  and  faithfulness  which 
one  would  scarcely  look  for  among  a people  who  have  had  so 
few  advantages.  My  experience  thus  far  with  this  people  does 
not  confirm  the  reports  as  to  their  being  ‘ thieves  and  liars.’  On 
the  contrary  I have  found  them  to  be  more  truthful  and  honest 
than  I supposed.  I am  looking  forward  with  joy  to  that  happy 
day  when  I can  teach  them  to  read  about  the  Saviour  and  the 
better  land.  How  can  any  Christian  look  upon  the  privations 
of  the  people,  physical  and  spiritual,  without  being  deeply 
impressed  with  a desire  to  help  them  ? ” 

THE  KING THE  SECULOS. 

Of  the  king’s  relation  to  the  mission  Mr.  Sanders  writes  r 

“ Yesterday  the  king  who  had  been  hunting  called  on  us  on 
his  way  home.  Of  course,  he  was  unwelcome,  but  fortunately 
he  did  not  enter  our  enclosure.  He  called  upon  Mr.  Miller  to 
show  his  rifle,  of  which  he  had  heard  ; fired  it ; wanted  one  like 
it.  When  we  said  that  neither  powder,  guns,  nor  fire-water  are 
given  by  us,  he  wished  to  write  to  our  king  to  send  him  one. 
On  learning  that  ‘ our  king  ’ is  unacquainted  with  us,  and  would 
not  notice  such  a letter,  he  wished  us  as  his  agents  to  buy  one. 
On  being  refused  he  grew  quite  vexed,  but  was  happy  when 
given  a piece  of  cloth. 


THE  FIRST  REINFORCEMENTS. 


75 


“The  king  occasionally  calls  on  us  for  this  or  that.  Long 
ago  he  ‘ borrowed  ’ the  cornet,  which  has  been  of  no  use  to  us. 
It  was  to  be  returned  the  day  following.  Instead  came  a sum- 
mons to  Brother  Miller  to  come  and  blow  it.  Word  was  returned 
that  we  had  other  business  on  hand,  and  it  has  not  appeared 
since.  One  day  Jose  and  I called  when  returning  from  buying 
a pig.  Kwikwi  wanted  a key  for  one  of  his  boxes.  So  it  was 
sent  down,  but  no  key  we  could  spare  could  be  fitted. 

“ Barros  and  Jose  have  constantly  persisted  in  giving  out  that 
we  are  only  making  a trip  through  these  countries.  This  has 
been  done,  either  because  they  really  have  not  grasped  what  I 
have  tried  to  say,  or  because  they  believe  that  lies  are  better 
than  the  truth.  Last  night  some  remarks  of  Jose  led  to  this 
subject  again,  and  I tried  to  make  him  understand  by  declaring 
the  substance  of  our  teachings  and  aims,  etc.  It  was  with  sur_ 
prise  that  I heard  him  ask  if  the  blacks  stand  before  God  in  the 
same  position  with  the  whites  ; if  they  have  the  same  promises 
and  privileges.  He  appeared  to  be  a very  earnest  listener  as  it 
was  explained  that  God  looks  at  the  heart  rather  than  the  color 
of  the  skin  ; that  the  latter  is  but  man’s  way.  It  was  gratifying 
to  hear  him  reading  his  Testament  a little  later,  and  to  find  him 
with  it  at  an  unusual  hour  this  morning.” 

THE  FIRST  REINFORCEMENTS. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Frederick  A.  Walter,  who  sailed  from  Lisbon, 
July  5th,  landed  in  Benguela,  September  5th,  and  there  were 
met  by  Mr.  Bagster. 

“ At  five  o’clock,  p.m.,”  writes  Mr.  Walter,  “ I went  on  shore, 
leaving  my  wife  on  board,  assuring  her  I would  return  very  soon. 
My  intention  was  to  look  for  rooms,  or  a house  to  live  in,  while 
in  Benguela.  After  leaving  the  custom-house  I started  to  go 
to  the  house  of  Mr.  Bastos,  who  had  a letter  from  Brother 
Bagster.  On  the  way  to  the  house,  we  met  the  postman,  with  a 
lot  of  letters  in  his  hand,  standing  in  the  middle  of  the  street 
giving  letters  to  two  different  gentlemen,  the  one  a Portuguese, 


76 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA . 


the  other  a tall  and  healthy  looking  man,  with  a large  wide-awake 
hat  on,  a full  beard,  big  brown  shoes  with  very  broad  soles  ; in 
short,  his  whole  appearance  indicated  that  he  had  just  returned 
from  a long  march.  He  was  eagerly  looking  over  the  letters 
which  were  passed  from  hand  to  hand.  Presently  we  came  up 
to  the  postman,  and  the  gentleman  with  me,  who  is  a friend  of 
Mr.  Bastos,  introduced  me  to  one  of  the  men.  ‘ Senhor  Bagster,’ 
said  he.  We  looked  at  each  other,  and  you  may  guess  what 
followed.  The  fact  was,  Brother  Bagster  had  just  returned  from 
Bailunda  with  twenty-one  men  to  meet  us.  After  these  were 
brought  under  shelter  and  provided  for  the  night,  Brother  Bagster 
returned  with  me  to  the  steamer,  w'here  we  arrived  at  about 
eleven  o’clock.  Thursday  morning  we  all  left  the  steamer  to  go 
on  shore.  While  we  had  our  goods  passed  through  the  custom- 
house, Brother  Bagster  went  up  town  to  find  a house,  in  which 
he  was  successful.  In  a few  days  a number  of  men  will  arrive 
here  from  Bailunda  to  take  our  goods  in  ; but  as  most  of  them 
need  repacking  in  smaller  loads,  we  shall  be  quite  busy  for  a few 
days.  At  present  it  seems  as  though  we  shall  remain  here  till  the 
arrival  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Nichols.  My  wife,  almost  without  ex- 
ception, has  been  exceedingly  well  during  all  the  many  miles  we 
have  traveled  since  we  left  Boston.  Even  here  she  seems  to  be 
in  the  best  of  health.  We  are  both  much  pleased  with  the 
climate.  The  thermometer  is  at  75°alldayin  the  house.  We 
are  careful  not  to  be  in  the  sun  any  more  than  can  be  helped. 
And  while  we  are  here  our  work  will  be  mostly  in-doors.  One 
month  spent  in  Benguela  under  these  circumstances  will  be  well 
for  us  all,  we  hope.” 

Mr.  Bagster  writes  from  Benguela,  September  12th  : 

“ We  are  glad,  and  sing  and  rejoice.  If  Mrs.  Walter  never 
reaches  our  station,  if  no  lady  ever  comes  here,  this  is  proven 
today : when  they  come  here  they  come  to  their  own  work  — to 
the  right  place.  It  is  established  as  a fact  that  the  woman  who 
comes  in  the  name  of  Christ  comes  with  peculiar  and  very 


BA1LUNDA  TO  BE  THE  FIRST  STATION. 


77 


blessed  power  and  influence.  Do  I write  strongly  ? I think 
not.  I am  sure  not.  I know  the  journey  will  be  long,  tedious, 
and  difficult.  I know  that  it  will  be  trying  and  not  without  much 
weariness  ; but  I say  with  all  my  heart,  praise  God  that  our  first 
lady  missionary  has  reached  us.  Fearlessly  give  the  word  of 
encouragement  to  those  coming.  They  can  come,  and  welcome 
is  assured  to  them.  In  my  last  letter  I left  you  as  we  journeyed 
up  to  Bihe.  We  started  after  many  vexatious  delays  and  many 
great  annoyances.  We  found  out  whole  sides  of  the  character 
of  the  King  Quiqui  (or  Kwikwi),  of  his  counselors  and  of  his 
people. 

“ We  learned  also  many  things  about  the  country,  its  outlines, 
geography,  and  inhabitants.  We  passed  through  many  fields  of 
corn,  manioc,  and  some  sweet  potatoes ; through  a district  very 
well  populated,  well  watered,  and  somewhat  better  timbered 
than  nearer  the  headquarters  of  the  king.  We  had  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  new  places  and  hearing  new  sounds  of  insect  life.  We 
became,  not  only  better  acquainted  with  the  people,  but  also 
learned  their  character  in  new  phases,  and  in  those  that  we 
should  perhaps  have  been  long  in  finding  out  otherwise.  We 
have  overlooked  from  some  hill-tops  a very  large  part  of  the 
eastern  side  of  King  Kwikwi ’s  territory. 

“We  reached  in  Biheli  a tributary  tribe  of  Bailunda,  who  were 
only  ten  miles  from  the  border  of  Bihe.  There  the  ambassador 
said,  ‘ I have  heard  that  the  king  of  Bihe  will  kill  you.  I must 
send  back  and  ask  King  Kwikwi  what  is  to  be  done.’  We  said, 
4 Go  on  ; the  king  of  Bihe  will  not  hurt  us  ; go  on.’  But  no,  it 
was  useless ; we  could  only  turn  back.  And  having  extorted  a 
promise  to  do  as  we  wished,  nothing  was  left  us  but  to  accept 
carriers  and  return  to  the  same  place  we  left ; or,  as  all  our  huts, 
fence,  etc.,  were  carried  away  in  our  absence,  we  located  some 
two  hundred  yards  back  in  the  scrubby  woods. 

“ We  have  built  a brush  fence  round  a plot,  have  made  a corral 
for  the  donkeys,  have  built  a stage  for  our  goods  and  secured  them 
upon  it,  have  put  up  the  frame  for  a rough  temporary  house,  thirty  - 


78 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


one  by  fourteen  feet,  have  got  hay  enough  to  do  a large  part 
of  the  thatching,  have  been  able  to  get  eighty  bushels  of  corn 
(maize),  ten  of  beans,  a few  chickens,  and  two  small  hogs.  Then 
came  the  mail  of  August ; and  two  hours  after  the  receipt 
thereof,  I was  sending  our  man  Jose  to  hire  carriers  to  come  to 
this  place  (Benguela)  where  I now  write,  to  meet  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Walter.  I reached  here  on  the  5th ; met  Mr.  Walter  four  hun- 
dred yards  from  the  landing,  as  he  was  going  up  to  town  while 
I was  going  to  find  him  on  the  steamer.  We  spent  the  night  on 
board  and  landed  the  next  day. 

“I  turn  to  note  our  present  outlook.  I have  to  say,  briefly, 
‘ Good.’  The  Lord  has  shown  us  that  Bailunda  is  to  be  the 
first  station.  The  king  has  consented  to  our  looking  at  a loca- 
tion six  miles  further  from  him,  and  if  not  a good  one,  far  better 
than  our  present  site.  Brother  Sanders  was  to  see  it  and  to 
report.  All  are  well.  We  are  daily  growing  better  friends  with  the 
people,  and  becoming  understood.  We  have  nearly  conquered 
our  very  worst  enemy,  or  danger ; i.  e.  their  superstition.  They 
begin  to  see  that  it  is  not  any  fetish  in  us,  but  rather  only  ‘ wal- 
ougrita.’  This  term  signifies  a very  smart,  shrewd  man.  We 
are  now  in  possession  of  some  thirteen  hundred  and  more  words 
of  their  language,  and  have  a fine  beginning  for  a grammar. 
We  find  a highly  inflected  language,  and  begin  to  know  how  it 
is  the  inflections  are  made.  We  begin  to  pronounce  a few 
words  in  some  degree  like  their  own  pronunciation  of  them. 
We  have  adopted  a mode  of  transcribing  the  language  so  perfect 
that  when  Brother  Sanders  sent  me  down  the  names  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty-eight  carriers,  every  one  readily  answered  to 
his  name.  This  means  a great  deal  when  such  names  are  to  be 
inscribed  as  Yamunguli,  Kawendimba,  Mweinkisero,  Mwein- 
wooimba,  Epatanga,  Ukwayengu,  Indiamvulu,  Sakanjalomba. 
We  rejoice  even  in  so  very  small  degree  to  be  understood. 

“ We  are  now,  unconsciously  almost,  in  possession  of  a good 
deal  of  the  knowledge  of  the  ways  of  this  people  which  will 
enable  us  largely  to  avoid  confusion  and  excite  both  interest  and 


ARRIVAL  OF  DR.  NICHOLS. 


79 


sympathy.  As  to  Benguela,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Walter  and  myself 
intend  to  remain  here  until  the  arrival  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Nichols, 
because  of  the  impossibility  of  getting  loads  ready  to  go  with 
the  men  who  are  here,  and  those  who  are  to  be  here  in  two  days. 
I have  sent  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  carriers  to  take  all  in  when 
the  steamer  of  October  arrives.” 

The  steamer  arrived  October  6th,  bringing  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Nichols,  who  had  had  a pleasant  voyage. 

“ After  the  delay  incident  to  all  such  operations,”  writes  Dr. 
Nichols  from  Benguela,  October  15,  1881,  “we  were  permitted 
to  take  boat  for  the  shore.  Passing  rapidly  between  the  fleets 
of  Oriental-looking  lighters  with  their  brown  latteen  sails,  we 
pulled  to  a handsome  iron  pier,  where,  among  a score  of  others, 
we  distinguished  two  honest-looking  gentlemen,  in  top  boots  of 
russet  leather  and  tweed  raiment.  One,  tall,  pale,  and  heavily 
bearded,  stood  in  the  background,  regarding  us  scrutinizingly 
from  under  his  flapping  wide-awake  and  streaming  puggree. 
The  other,  round,  smiling,  and  hearty,  stepped  briskly  forward 
to  meet  us. 

“ ‘ Dr.  Nichols  ? ’ 

“ ‘ The  same  ; and  you,  I suppose,  are  Mr.  Walter?  ’ And  we 
shook  hands  as  old  friends. 

“ We  are  most  impatient  to  start  for  the  interior.  Nearly  all 
our  arrangements  are  now  complete,  and  there  is  every  reason 
to  hope  that  the  carriers  will  be  ready  so  that  the  caravan  may 
start  the  first  of  the  week. 

“ Last  Sunday  we  celebrated  the  holy  Sacrament  of  the  Lord’s 
'Supper.  There  were  only  five  of  us,  but  all  actuated  by  the 
same  spirit,  and  all  conscious  of  the  Divine  Presence.  It  was 
an  invaluable  assistance,  a source  of  much  comfort  and  refresh- 
ing, thus  to  find  the  table  of  our  Lord  spread  in  pagan  Africa. 
May  the  occasion  never  be  forgotten  ; indeed,  I am  sure  it  will 
not  be. 


8o 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


“ All  the  influences  at  work  upon  this  land  and  people  have  been 
bad.  Even  today  the  accursed  system  of  slavery  is  in  full  force, 
along  this  coast  ; and  with  the  licentiousness  that  always  follows 
slavery,  all  Angola  is  leprous.  Under  these  circumstances,  one 
must  have  a fertile  fancy,  and  exercise  it  without  restraint,  who 
would  form  even  a faint  idea  of  the  difficulties  which  are  to  be 
overcome. 

“ We  received  yesterday,  or  the  day  before,  an  embassy  from 
the  Sova  of  Bailunda  in  the  person  of  a villainous-looking  little 
man  with  thin,  sharply-cut  lips,  and  a face  deeply  furrowed  by 
age.  This  was  the  tailor  to  his  majesty,  a most  influential 
and  noted  personage  ; with  him  were  two  of  his  own  race  and 
two  Bihenos.  These  latter  were  attired  in  the  ordinary  costume 
of  their  people,  but  the  royal  legate  was  marvelous  to  behold 
decked  in  a flannel  shirt  of  many  hues,  and  armed  with  a saber 
of  prodigious  size.  He  expressed  himself  much  pleased  to 
learn  that  we  were  to  bring  two  white  ladies  into  his  sovereign’s 
realms,  and  most  profound  were  his  bows  of  salutation. 

“ One  word  I will  say  here  for  the  guidance  of  such  as  follow 
us.  It  would  be  well  for  all,  ladies  included,  to  provide  them- 
selves with  high  boots.  The  so-called  ‘jigger’  is  no  contempti- 
ble foe,  as  I have  already  found  to  my  cost.  After  a day  or  two 
with  the  fleas,  one  becomes  accustomed  to  the  sensations  of 
biting  and  pricking,  and  so  the  other  parasite,  the  jigger,  makes 
his  entrance  unnoticed,  and  unless  one  has  a remarkably  sensi- 
tive organization,  he  will  develop  unknown  to  his  ‘ host.’  When 
mature,  the  abdominal  rings  contract  an  intimate  adhesion  to 
the  cells  of  the  cutis  vera,  and  an  army  of  hungry  larvae  are 
poured  forth  into  the  tissues.  There  is  now  no  help  for  it ; 
spreading  in  all  directions,  they  invade  not  only  the  skin,  but 
muscles,  tendons,  and  ligaments.  It  is  rare  to  find  one  of  the 
natives  with  all  his  toes  — I have  not  yet  seen  one  — and  at 
least  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  the  blacks  are  actually  crippled  by 
these  industrious  little  scamps. 

“There  is  no  sure  preventive  against  these  consequences 


THE  OUTLOOK  FOR  THE  MISSION. 


8l 


but  cleanliness  and  untiring  vigilance  ; nothing  in  the  world  will 
keep  them  entirely  at  a distance ; but  a pair  of  high  boots  ren- 
ders one  much  less  liable  to  their  attacks,  and  when  they  do 
assail  one,  a careful  and  complete  extirpation  finishes  that 
chapter.  . 

“I  speak  of  jiggers  from  personal  knowledge,  bought  dearly 
enough.  Every  evening  I make  a most  careful  scrutiny,  and 
the  result  last  night  was  an  abundant  supply  of  material  for  the 
microscope. 

“The  entire  party  are  enjoying  good  health,  and  so  far  no 
one  has  felt  the  least  touch  of  the  fever.” 

THE  OUTLOOK  FOR  THE  MISSION. 

Mr.  Bagster  writes,  from  Benguela  (October  15),  of  plans  for 
the  future : 

“ In  respect  to  the  road  to  Dondo  we  are  now  in  a position  to 
say  that  it  is  open  and  traveled ; that  many  Bailunda  men  go 
over  the  road  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  coffee  to  Dondo ; also 
I am  able  to  say  that  we  have  chatted  over  the  matter,  and  we 
intend  to  make  the  journey  to  Dondo  at  once,  with  a view  to 
establish  a station  there  if  possible.  We  shall  have  also  this 
object  in  view ; i.  e .,  the  establishing  a station  in  a large  country 
between  the  kingdoms  of  Bailunda  and  Dondo.  We  have  heard 
from  our  consul,  Mr.  Newton,  in  Loanda,  and  are  offered  by  him 
every  accommodation  and  every  needed  help. 

“You  speak  of  making  excursions  and  journeys  in  the  whole 
country.  This  cannot  now  be  done.  How  soon  we  may  be 
allowed  to  do  it  I do  not  know.  We  are  yet  suspected,  and  are 
in  the  hands  of  a tyrant,  and  have  to  stay  or  go  just  as  he  com- 
mands. If  I wanted  to  go  to  see  some  place  ten  miles  away, 
and  wanted  six  men  to  go  with  me,  not  one  would  dare  to  lift 
a load  to  go  with  me,  unless  I were  allowed  to  go  by  the  king. 
Should  they  go  unpermitted,  their  heads  would  pay  for  it. 
Brother  Sanders  wished  to  go  six  fniles  to  see  the  very  place 


82 


WEST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


the  king  has  offered  to  us,  but  I am  not  speaking  more  than 
truth  to  say  that  he  was  not  allowed  to  go.  The  king  told  him 
not  to  go  until  I came  up.  On  account  of  the  caprice  of  the 
king,  and  the  very  great  jealousy  of  the  people,  one  against 
another,  new  places  are  extremely  difficult  to  reach.  Today  I 
do  not  know  that  I shall  be  allowed  to  go  out  to  Dondo.  I 
hope  to  do  so,  but  cannot  tell. 

“ I regard  it  as  proven  now  that  Bailunda  must  be  the  large 
station  ; thence  we  can  move  on  the  country  north  of  Bailunda; 
then  to  the  northwest  part  of  Bihe,  north  of  the  Quito  River, 
Kapobro’s  country,  with  its  language  half  Ganguela  and  half 
Ambunda ; then  on  into  Ganguela,  and  far  beyond.  We  thus 
shall  follow  the  grand  high  lands  on  perhaps  their  greatest 
length  inland,  and  shall  be  on  the  line  of  thickest  population 
toward  the  middle  of  Africa.  The  Ganguela  language  will  take 
us  almost  across  the  continent  as  we  follow  the  trade  of  this 
people.  But  at  present  we  look  to  plant  a mission  in  Bailunda, 
and  prospect  the  Dondo  road  and  the  Bihe  country.” 

November  12,  1881,  Mr.  Bagster  writes: 

“ We  have  started.  All  are  at  last  upon  the  road  to  Catum- 
bella.  Our  Lord  Jesus  is  wonderfully  good  to  us.  We  are 
all  more  than  glad.  ...  I have  on  my  mind  a subject  on 
which  I want  to  write  at  some  time.  It  is,  ‘The  Missionary’s 
JOYS.’  Perhaps  the  only  missionary  I ever  heard  or  read  of 
who  gives  any  idea  of  the  joy  of  missionary  enterprise  is 
Dr.  Livingstone ; and  I shall  attempt  to  explain  how  the 
real  love  that  impels  the  missionary  to  leave  country  and 
home  for  foreign  work ; how  that  little  seed  becomes  a great 
tree,  and  all  the  longings  of  his  heart  gather  daily  new 
strength  and  joy  by  the  love  that  goes  out  more  and  more 
abundantly  towards  these  people.  . . . We  stop  in  the  town  of 
Catumbella  tomorrow,  Lord’s  Day,  and  Monday  we  go  out  into 
the  hills.  Now,  dear  brother,  and  all  whom  this  word  may 


IN  BAILUNDA. 


83 


reach,  just  praise  God  with  us  and  magnify  his  holy  name,  for 
his  love  is  wonderful.  He  knows  we  are  little  ones  and  he 
treats  us  as  such,  so  gracious  is  he.  Praise  the  Lord.  Amen.” 

A pencilled  note,  dated  November  30,  announces  that  they 
reached  Bailunda  in  eighteen  days. 

“ Last  night  we  all  arrived  safely  in  our  camp  at  Bailunda. 
We  praise  the  Lord  of  journeying  mercies.  I write  fully  next 
month ; today  suffering  much  pain  from  a badly  inflamed  foot 
and  some  little  weariness.  Yours,  thankfully  and  trustfully  and 
hopefully  in  Christ  Jesus. 

P.  S.  After  an  informal  talk  with  the  mission  members,  it  is 
still  thought  that  it  will  be  well,  as  soon  as  practicable,  to  send 
on  one  or  two  to  prospect  and  view  Bihe.  w.  w.  b.” 

“ Not  by  might  nor  by  power,  but  by  My  Spirit,”  are  con- 
quests to  be  won  in  this  realm  of  the  prince  of  darkness.  Our 
pioneers  are  affectionately  commended  to  the  prayers  of  all  who 
love  our  Lord.  May  their  lives  and  health  be  precious  in  His 
sight.  May  wisdom  be  given  them  to  meet  difficulties,  and 
patience  and  gentleness  to  disarm  opposition,  and  grace  to  set 
forth  the  gospel  of  the  love  of  God  so  that  many  shall  believe 
unto  life  eternal. 


% 


PHOTOMOUNT 
pamphlet  Binder 

Manufactured  by 
GAYLORD  BROS.  JrK. 
Syracuse,  N.Y. 
Stockton,  Calif. 


DATE  DUE 


.urn  1 

51995 

f 

DEMCO  38-297 


